As we drove through the limestone, shrub-speckled hills of Dalmatia with the sea behind us and mountains ahead, I couldn’t actually see where Klis Fortress was. Apparently it was directly ahead, then kind of to the left, then kind of ahead again. I was beginning to think that my eyes needed testing, when I realised that whoever built this place was a strategic genius.
(Contrary to what you might think, the fortress was not built by the makers of Game of Thrones, despite it being one of the series’ well-known filming locations.)
The whole point of having a fortress camouflaged onto the top of a very high hill is that it’s sort of tricky to spot. Either that or there was an actual invisibility cloak covering the whole thing. After a while my eyes adjusted to see the square corners of stone which appeared to be almost carved out of the top of the rock that it was balanced on, like a crudely-carved statue on a pillar dotted with moss.
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How to get from Split to Klis
Most visitors to Split will be arriving from the nearby, and stunning beautiful, city of Split. The city is a bustling port, for both cruise ships and ferries heading to and from the surrounding Dalmatian islands, so it receives plenty of visitors- especially over the summer months.
In the car, it’ll take around 25 minutes to drive from Split to Klis- heading in the direction of Solin.
By public bus, take the number 22 from Split to Klis. Check bus timetables here.
We visited as part of a tour, which was really great value for money as it included entry to the ancient city of Salona and a stop in the beautiful town of Trogir, as well as Klis. This is a great option if you’re short on time but still want to see a lot. Here’s the exact tour we booked.
Alternatively, you could book a private tour heading to similar destinations but at your own pace; this is perfect for cruise passengers. Check rates for a private multi-stop tour.
Do you have to pay to visit Klis Fortress?
Yes, you do indeed have to pay to visit the fortress. At the time of writing (2023), one adult ticket is €10- which is double what it was when I first visited 5 years before.
The history of Klis Fortress. Aka, Klis-Story
Klis Fortress has been around in some form or other for approximately the last 2000 years, with its history beginning when a tribe of ancient Illyrians started a stronghold on top of the hill. By the 9th century, (after a period of Roman rule), it had officially become the home of Croatian royalty, and for years to come the fortress continued to house Croatian kings. It was all very Medievally Royal, you know? A monastery and a church were built within the walls of the fort, and everyone was living a pretty much hunky dory lifestyle.
Next thing you know, the 16th Century had come around and the Ottomans decided it was about time they invaded. The fortress and surrounding area were taken over and stayed under Ottoman control for around 100 years, with their own adaptation of a mosque with a minaret being added to the Medieval structure.
But. As is often the case in this strange old world of ours, everyone loves a good old power struggle, and eventually the Venetians attacked, won the fortress, and swiftly moved in. Classic. The mosque was converted back to a church, the fortifications were strengthened- clearly there was a bit of an issue with people seizing control whenever they felt like it- and the Venetians ruled the roost on the Dalmatian Coast until their empire fell and the fortress was taken over by…the Austrians.
*faceplants*
The arrival of Game of Thrones
Don’t worry though guys, nowadays Klis Fortress really does belong exclusively to Croatia.
Which I’m sure is a real relief on everyone’s part.
Until recent years, Klis was more or less left to crumble, with not many people in the outside world really knowing anything about it. However, when the fort was used as a Game of Thrones filming location, things really changed.
Now guys, I’m going to be honest with you; I’ve never actually watched a single episode of Game of Thrones. Soz. But I do know that Klis was transformed into the city of Meereen for the series, (although they admittedly did use CGI for the gigantic pyramid), and that makes a visit to Klis all the more interesting for Game of Thrones Fans.
Diocletian’s Palace in Split is another Game of Thrones filming location, and the distance from Split to Klis Fortress is minimal-so it’s fully possible to see both in one day.
Present-day Klis Fortress and its beautiful views
Thanks to Game of Thrones, it became possible for a lot more money to be put into Klis Fortress to develop it as a tourist location. Don’t get me wrong, I am not a fan of over-tourism- there needs to be a balance. (And over-tourism really is a problem which I think Croatia is starting to suffer from.) But what this development means is that the upkeep of the Fortress is much better than it once was. Plus nowadays there are a few exhibits open to do some learning in.
You can’t go wrong with a little bit of learning in a historic location, can you?
Other than these exhibits, visitors are pretty much free to roam around the site as they please, and I really really appreciated how tranquil it was to look out from the walls across to the city of Split and the Adriatic Sea beyond it in the distance. All I could hear was a Croatian flag swinging in the breeze, and the occasional bird swooping overhead. So pals, aside from the historical significance of this stunning place- once known as ‘The Key to Dalmatia’- it’s worth visiting for the views alone. What an amazing location.
Despite Game of Thrones and the extra tourism it’s generated for Klis and Croatia as a whole, this landmark place still feels slightly off-the-beaten path. And the journey time from Split to Klis Fortress is only 20 minutes! If you’re looking for easy day trips from Split, Klis is the perfect option.
