Santorini in October is an Autumnal wonderland.
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The first time I visited Santorini was in late August. I stayed in a cave not far from Fira. (Which sounds odder than it was. Traditionally houses on this little island were built in caves, don’cha know.)
I loved the ethereal volcanic landscape, dotted with blue domed churches and criss-crossed with steep pathways etched into the cliffs. But in August, Santorini was also HEAVING with people. This is one of the most-visited islands in Greece, and tourism is the driving factor in Santorini’s success.
The fight for the best sunset spot in Oía might as well have been a gladiatorial tournament.
I left the island on a ferry, feeling mildly overwhelmed from the crowds and very much looking forward to something more off-the-beaten-path in the Pelopponese.
Luckily, I was able to return to Santorini in October, and experienced a completely different, far more peaceful atmosphere.
What a joy, is Santorini in the off-season!
Arriving at the Old Harbour
Our ship was anchored in the middle of the caldera- the collapsed centre of what was once an enormous volcano. Santorini is actually part of the rim of this volcano, and the island looms dramatically upwards in stark contrast to the sparkling sea we were skimming across. It was the day before Halloween, but even this late in October Santorini’s weather was beautiful; there wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the air was hot and dry.
Hopping off the tender boat, we had three options to reach the town of Fira at the top of the steep cliffs. Take the cable car, hop on a donkey to carry us up the five hundred and eighty eight Karavolades Stairs, or simply walk.
With our own two legs.
A word on the Santorini donkeys
Many many years ago, donkeys were absolutely vital for the people of Santorini. They were used to transport goods, people, and produce across the rocky island and up and down cliffs to the port, and without these lovely little creatures life on Santorini would have been a lot more difficult.
These days however, the main function of the donkeys is as a gimmick for tourists. And on a day when several cruise ships are in port, these poor creatures can have their work cut out for them, heaving people up from the port to the town in scorching temperatures.
If you’re considering an island-hopping adventure: How to get the ferry from Santorini to Athens
On the October day that we arrived, the steps were lined with rows of stationary donkeys dressed to the nines in pom-pom swathed bridles and tasseled saddlecloths. The donkey men sat together in shady patches up and down the steps, calling out “donkey, donkey” as we clambered upwards past them. Bored donkeys flicked off flies in the baking hot sun and occasionally shifted their weight from hoof to hoof, not taking much noticed as we passed.
I couldn’t imagine even mildly enjoying riding up the uneven steps on a donkey at the best of times; let alone when I’m not certain whether these animals are even being treated kindly.
But a plus side of visiting Santorini in October was that there were no floods of people queuing for a ride. For a long time me and my pal Gemiah didn’t come across a single other soul on the steps, until a couple of donkeys clattered downwards carrying two giggly Asian girls in designer sunglasses and mesh dresses. They rounded a corner out of sight, and that was that.
Praise the lord for being the only donkey ride we witnessed.
From Fira to Oía
We had left the ship on the very first crew tender boat we could board, so it was still quite early in the morning, and the only people around were the odd restaurant owner or shopkeeper getting ready to meet the passengers. As much as I disagree with the sheer numbers of ships allowed to arrive at this tiny island every day during the summer season, it was also clear from the quiet streets just how strongly Santorini depends on tourism to flourish.
(Although. The fact that it was off-season didn’t make the morning coffee any cheaper. Boooo. Like many touristy locations, in Santorini you pay more for the view than the product. What else could we expect, with seats looking directly across the caldera and the rooftops of Fira?)
Morning fuel consumed, we headed on over to the bus station to find a bus to Oía. And pals, another bonus of visiting Santorini in October? We actually got a seat on the bus! During the height of summer, these buses (particularly the route between Fira and Oía), can be as crowded as a can of sardines. But Gemiah and I sat comfortably at the back of the KTEL bus, watching the arid landscape roll by and feeling all together rather relaxed, all the way to the North of the island.
For details of buses on Santorini, head to KTEL’s website.
Santorini in October means an Oía without people
After wolfing down some rounds of gyros at Pitogyros– who are not only renowned for their gyros expertise, but are also located about five minutes from the bus stop in Oía, we headed into the empty streets of the cliffside village.
Oía in October feels far less like a place which exists solely for tourists, and more like an actual fully-functioning community. People live here year round, but it’s easy to forget at the height of summer when the streets are packed with people vying for the best sunset spot.
The main street through the village is made of marble, and it was slippery in the morning sunshine. Weirdly, I hadn’t actually noticed that it was marble the first time I’d visited. Maybe I was busy trying not to bump into the people bustling around me?
Considering a longer visit to the island? Read about my stay at Caveland Santorini
We continued along the marble walkway, past boutiques and cafes, some of which had already closed for the winter season. A group of construction workers fixed the roof of a church as we passed beneath it, silhouetted against the dazzling white sunshine. Eventually we meandered off on one of the little curved pathways down the cliffside, with no real goal other than to wander through as many tiny streets as possible. The only other signs of life we spotted was the odd cat lazing on a baking hot roof, and every once in a while a cleaning lady stripping inside of a hotel room or apartment.
There was something mildly surreal about the whole experience, but I blooming’ loved it.
Read my detailed guide to Oía.
Over-tourism in Santorini
The first time I’d visited Santorini was when instagram was just starting to become a thing, and the word ‘instatravel’ hadn’t even been uttered yet. Selfie sticks were around, and I definitely saw people queuing to take photographs of themselves in front of certain views; but it was at nowhere near as drastic a level as I’ve witnessed in other locations since then.
Clearly in the two years between my first and second visit to the island, things have escalated. In the quest for the most instagram-worthy photo, tourists have become increasingly willing to go the extra mile.
On several of the rooftops below us we could make out words painted in large capital letters.
“PLEASE KEEP OFF OF OUR ROOF”
“CHURCH! DON’T STEP ON!”
(Amongst others.)
What a strange sign of the times this was.
The Castle of St Nicholas and the best bookshop in the land
Jutting out on a cliff at one end of Oía is the crumbling Castle of St Nicholas, a lookout for pirates built in the 1400s. Not much is left of the castle, but it’s the best place to get a great view of the rooftops and domes of the village, and it was the only area that we encountered more than a handful of people around us.
Naturally Gemiah (who is a circus artist), decided this was the perfect place to balance on his hands for a photo. And naturally, everyone who was gathered at the castle decided it was the perfect opportunity to get a photo of him, too. Good lad. That’s what it’s like when you work with circus artists, guys.
Tucked away at the foot of this castle is the tiny harbour of Ammoudi Bay, which is a great place to eat freshly caught fish, but also for cliff-jumping. Alas, with only one October day on the island, we din’t have time to tumble down the stairs. I saved that for my next visit.
We wound our way back along the pathways up the cliffs, making sure to head into Atlantis Books, one of my most favourite bookshops in the whole world. Books of all languages are crammed into the little white building, as well as plenty of rare first editions; this shop isn’t just a labour of love, it’s an actual treasure trove. During winter, Atlantis Books opening hours are slightly shorter- from 2pm until roughly sunset.
Santorini in October is a better place all round
Back in Fira, we bought a carefully curated selection of Greek pastries from a bakery and sat on a wall sampling them all in the sunshine. During my stay in August, this would never have been an option; the streets were far too crowded.
(Post-Covid it gives me mild palpitations to think about).
But Santorini in October is relaxed, and half an hour sat on a wall in the middle of Fira was no big deal.
I spent the rest of the afternoon strolling by myself, following my camera and taking full advantage of the lack of human beings. Although there were a few ‘busier’ streets, they weren’t particularly crowded and it was awesome to see part of the island in such a different light to what I’d previously experienced.
Day finally coming to a close, I hopped onto the cable car (with absolutely no queue, obviously), feeling altogether completely at peace with the world as we descended the cliffs in the golden glow of the late afternoon sun.
A day is nowhere near enough to properly experience this incredible island. In fact, if you have a chance to visit Santorini on a cruise ship, I’d strongly advise against it. (Controversial but true.) But for me this October day was enough to realise that without a shadow of a doubt, I need to come back in winter.
If slow travel is your cup of tea, this is the perfect time to visit Santorini.
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More from Santorini:
How to visit Santorini on a budget
How to get the ferry from Santorini to Athens
LOGISTICAL STATISTICALS
- There are two ports in Santorini. Fira is the capital city, where cruise ships dock. But the main port of Santorini (where ferries arrive), is called Athinios.
- The weather in Santorini in October is generally hot and dry, with temperatures ranging from anywhere between 22ºc and 30ºc.
- Throughout winter, weather in Santorini and the rest of the Cyclades tends to be sunny but cool. The coldest temperatures (around December-January) tend to be around 10ºc.
- The summer season in Santorini is officially from the end of June to mid September.
- Cruise ship crew can use the cable car in Fira for free. Normal ticket price is €6 each way.
