The best things to do in Geiranger- the most beautiful Norwegian fjord. In fact, this place is so stunning that Disney animators based Elsa’s kingdom of Arendelle on it. Read on to discover this UNESCO World Heritage wonder, and get all the tips on how to visit yourself.
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The first time we sailed into Geirangerfjord, it was the end of April. I awoke pretty darn tootin’ early, threw on what I considered to be warm clothes, and made my way up to the bow of the ship in order to witness the marvel of the mountains. It truly was marvellous. There was mist surrounding us- very Pirates of the Caribbean, you know the opening scene with the little girl singing?
The surrounding mountains were just visible beneath, looming up to the sky on either side of us. They were still snow-covered, giving the whole experience a tinge of being in a mildly sinister yet epic black and white film from decades ago, with the ship calmly cutting through the calm dark water below us.
Gateway to the fjords: Exploring the City of Bergen, Norway
We passed the Seven Sisters waterfall; seven icy cascades of water plunging down from the top of the snow-capped peak. As we rounded a bend in the fjord, the shroud of mist lifted slightly and we could see the tiny village of Geiranger at the dead end.
Full steam ahead.
Over the next few months we returned to Geiranger every ten days, seeing it slowly change as the snow almost entirely melted. Blossom appeared on the trees, and then the full bloom of Summer arrived, before it began to retreat into Autumn again.
A Norwegian fjords cruise to Geiranger
Cruises are one of the most popular ways of visiting Norway, and for the experience of sailing through the mountains alone, this is the only cruise itinerary which I’d recommend to anyone and everyone. Regardless of age. (Because pals, cruising isn’t just for old people.)
On a cruise to Geiranger, your ship will dock directly in the village. And then you can just hop straight off the boat and start exploring! That’s one great thing about cruising in the Norwegian fjords; almost every port is right in the centre of where you need to be. No awkward shuttles to find anything.
If you don’t fancy a week or so in a floating hotel, but do want the experience of Geirangerfjord via boat, you could visit on a ferry. The ferry from Hellesylt to Geiranger runs from April to October and takes about an hour in total.
Which other ports did we dock at? Sailing on a Norwegian Fjords Cruise
What is a fjord?
I am not suggesting for one second that you do not know what a fjord is; but what I am saying is, it’s ok if you don’t. I was pretty clueless myself.
A fjord is created when a glacier (that is, a very slow-moving but frozen river-type thing) carves out a pathway, extending below sea level. It reaches the sea, then slowly begins to melt. Then the sea fills the void that is left behind. Good one, sea! This means that the water within a fjord is actually saltwater, and these fjords can go on for miles and miles. The mouth of the fjord is typically a pretty shallow affair, and it becomes deeper and deeper the further inland you get; there are points of the Geirangerfjord which are as deep downwards as the mountains that tower over them.
I’m getting all David Attenborough here but what an amazing world we live in, guys!
Geiranger could go at any time!
This is a sad but true fact. Aleš, our photographer friend, declared it over lunch one day like some sort of Slovenian prophet sent with the word of The Almighty.
“One day, the mountain will crack and fall into the fjord!! And the force of the rock will be SO huge that it will cause a tsunami which will wipe out the whole civilisation of Geiranger!!”
Well, it seemed a bit far fetched to me. Aleš also once told us that he had wrestled an octopus off the coast of Switzerland, and if you know your geography you’ll realise that that is fully impossible. Mainly because Switzerland is completely landlocked. You can’t fool me, sir!
Anyway, after some stealthy googling it turned out he was being 100% factual. There’s a big old crack which is consistently growing diagonally across a mountain in the Geirangerfjord. When the top of the mountain finally breaks off- which it definitely will at some point in time- it will plunge into the water and create a tsunami which will DEFINITELY wipe out the village of Geiranger and anything else within its path.
The same thing has happened to fjord villages in the past, so they know with full certainty what Geiranger’s fate will be. Good lord. But fear not, pals- this is the most monitored mountain in the world, so if the mountain starts to go the people of Geirangerfjord should have approximately 72 hours to flee before the rock finally tumbles. Phew.
Exploring the village of Geiranger
Geiranger village is tiny. As in, fully minuscule. The permanent population here is around 200, although this increases drastically when seasonal staff arrive for the Summer season. Mainly made up of small wooden shops selling classic tourist goods, campsites and the odd hotel, there is also a very tiny school, a church and a few hotels. Although the village can get busy when there are ships docked, it’s still not a place you should bypass.
My favourite place for a coffee in Geiranger is a little place called CafeOle. Filled with cute colourful furniture, it’s a cozy place to shelter from the rain and sells pretty darn good coffee. Get the svele (Norwegian pancakes) and cream for guaranteed deliciousness. There’s also a beaut bakery in town, and a chocolate shop selling some exquisite artisan chocolates.
The absolute best thing to do in Geiranger: hiking
I love a good old-fashioned hike, I do. And Geiranger is the perfect place for it; without a doubt hiking is the one of the ultimate best things to do in Geiranger.
My problem with these good old-fashioned hikes though, is that I tend to set off at a crazy pace without much of an idea of where I’m actually going, and end up slightly lost in the process (see:The Title of This Blog). The day I made it my goal to climb as high up as I possibly could- despite the fact my lack of appropriate footwear, and without informing anyone of where I was going (rule number one of hiking in Norway, homies)- turned out marvellously. But I was lucky.
After a while of walking, the earth became particularly sodden with water and mud. I realised I wasn’t following a footpath. I was following a stream that was all but finished streaming, as there was no more snow left to melt off of the top of the mountains. Eventually I made it back to a rough pathway which led me in turn to a terrifying looking wooden bridge which had nothing underneath to support it from falling into the roaring waters beneath. I was pretty much gripped with fear at this point.
Another Norwegian hike: I Finally Got Off the Ship in Åndalsnes!
But having taken a photograph of said bridge, I realised I’d be an idiot not to risk my death by crossing it. How embarrassing would that be, to take a photo of a bridge I had no intention of crossing!? Well, I realise now I was stupid to be so afraid but all I’m saying is I did it. And I’m rather happy there was no one around to witness my weird shaky walk across the bridge; I’d imagine it was something similar to a chicken experiencing a stroke.
Or there was the time I encountered a posse of goats, chilling in a field. I was well up for getting closer to those goats and they looked like a friendly bunch. So I squeezed sideways, crab-style, between the stringy looking fence and the stinging nettles that ran parallel with it. After greeting several rather inquisitive furry fellows, I realised I was being electrocuted repeatedly by the fence. It might have looked like mere nylon thread, but upon closer inspection there was definitely metal running through it and I felt the need to make a swift but very careful exit back down the side of the field, this time more Mission Impossible style as if I was walking on the edge of a building. Danger. Severe danger.
If you’re not the sort who is up for strolling mapless through the wilderness, check out this list of the best hikes in Geiranger.
Where to stay in Geiranger
The most obvious choice for lovers of the outdoors, is to camp. (And honestly, should you even visit Geiranger if you’re not a try outdoors lover!?) And the best campsite in Geiranger is probably Camping Geiranger. The site is located right on the fjord, in the centre of the village. In addition to the small shop on site it’s also super close to a big grocery store, and is kitted out with all the mod cons including wifi and washing machines. So…it’s not completely out in the elements then. The campsite has room for 140 tents or vans, and waking up to a view like this is surely unbeatable.
At the complete other end of the scale, check out the Grande Fjorde Hotel, for some equally stunning views, slightly higher up the mountain. It’s a lot pricier than a campsite- this is Norway after all- but aside from the comfort factor, the great thing about this hotel is the hot tubs overlooking the fjord. Norway is all about the views, after all.
Go kayaking in Geiranger
There are plenty of kayaking centres dotted around the water in Geirangerfjord, and it goes without saying that this is one of the most awesome things to do in Geiranger. What could be cooler than seeing the drama of a waterfall hitting the water at the very point of contact!?
Active Geiranger is one of the most popular kayak hire centres in Geiranger, although there are plenty of other choices. If you’re arriving by cruise ship, there’s a chance that your ship can arrange kayak hire for you. Personally I’d advise against this, mainly in the name of supporting local business, but whatever floats your boat. No pun intended.
Cycle up a mountain
For the extreme hardcore adventure lover, you could even try cycling up the mountains. Yep, you read it right. Cycle. Up. A. Mountain.
My far braver-than-I pal Rachel did it and I was highly impressed. I, however, decided against it. There are plenty of hairpin bends, the road is incredibly steep, and also I’m a chicken. In April/May there was still thick snow at the very top of the mountains; the photographic evidence of a posse of cyclists standing next to snow several feet deep, blew my actual mind.
For bike hire in Geiranger, check out Geiranger Fjordservice.
The most educational thing to do in Geiranger: visit the Norwegian Fjords Centre
Thanks to its huge natural importance, Geirangerfjord is a Unesco World Heritage sight. I may well have tried my best with this simple blog post to inform one and all about the intriguing facts of the fjord; but let’s face it- a blog post is simply not enough.
Head down to this incredibly informative, and interactive, museum, if you really want to know your stuff. Geiranger’s landscape is unique, and fragile, and the Norwegian Fjords Centre does a brilliant job of explaining its natural, historical and geographical significance. To find the museum, just follow the steps leading away from the village alongside the waterfall. Keep heading upwards and sooner or later you’ll reach the museum. (There are signs, but you really can’t miss it).
Bonus points if you manage to locate the trampoline. Double bonus points for the rope swing.
It’s easy for cruise passengers to just stick to the village with its gift shops and bakeries- but I definitely recommend setting off at your own pace in Geiranger and seeing what you stumble upon. There are mountain farms high up in the hills, wildlife everywhere, and a surprisingly colourful landscape waiting for you to explore it. Geiranger remains one of my favourite ports in Norway, and I’ve been back since the months that I spent working there to visit again.
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Logistical Statisticals
- Geiranger is in a very remote location. The closest airport is at Ålesund, and from there it’s possible to either take a public bus or hire a car- the journey by road still taking several hours.
- Beware- the roads are winding and in the winter months often closed! Do your research before you go.
- Considering I work on a cruise ship it’s maybe slightly strange that I don’t generally recommend paying to go on one; but sailing into Geirangerfjord is an experience like no other, so if you ever get the opportunity I’d say that it’s worth it for sure.
- Norway is EXPENSIVE. Even in tiny villages a casual coffee will set you back around $5-7. Scandalous.