We arrived in Vis Town one afternoon in late September, after a road trip along the mountainous coastline of Croatia and a ferry crossing from the city of Split.
The journey from the mainland only lasted a couple of hours, but after a long day in the car the muscles were starting to ache. We sat up on the open deck, watching people walk their dogs and drink their coffees while we were simultaneously blasted by the wind and dazzled by the sun. The view of the red roofs of Vis Town and the mountains behind it, couldn’t have come sooner.
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The instant the door of the ferry opened, drawbridge style, all the vehicles inside spewed out into the street, with foot passengers winding their way through the chaos, like streams running through the sand to the sea. It felt like 5000 people, and yet the town was actually very quiet for the entire five days that we were there.
Not only was it coming to the very tail end of the summer season, but Vis remains fairly under-the-radar on the list of places to visit in Croatia. Popular destinations like Dubrovnik, Split, and the beautiful island of Hvar, are all close neighbours, receiving a seemingly infinite rotation of tourists; but life on this little Dalmatian island remains as charming and authentic as it was twenty or thirty years ago.
Tourism is only a very recent development here, because until the nineties Vis was completely off limits to outsiders. Tito, the leader of Yugoslavia, had his HQ hidden high up in some mountain caves, and the whole island was used for military exercises. There were still plenty of locals living on Vis throughout that time, but any visitors were less than welcome.
Where to stay in Vis Town
Our airy apartment was conveniently located right next to the harbour (in fact, the town is so tiny that most places overlook the harbour). Its wide windows were the perfect vantage spot for people-watching at all times of the day, and if we left them open for air overnight, the sound of church bells and the smell of baking bread would wake us in the morning. (I know church bells aren’t everybody’s cup of tea, but I’m a lover of quaint atmospheric sounds like churches and chickens, so I was in my element here.)
Check rates for the harbour-front apartment in Vis Town.
If you’d rather stay in a hotel in Vis Town, the Hotel San Giorgio is your best bet. The family-run hotel is slightly further along the harbour-front in the Kut area of town, and it has a selection of contemporary rooms in a traditional stone house setting. The hotel also has a great restaurant where they serve meals in a pretty outdoor courtyard.
Check rates for the Hotel San Giorgio.
How long should you stay in Vis Town?
We explored Vis island fully- having a car is very much recommended- but Vis Town is the perfect place to base yourself on the island, and there are plenty of nooks and crannies to wander through. Four nights is a great length of time to see the island at a fairly relaxed pace, whilst spending plenty of time in Vis Town itself as well.
Morning
Just as the sun is rising and daubing everything with its golden tinge, the market stalls along the harbour begin to set up, selling produce to locals as well as the yacht owners and boat-trippers who are parked up in town.
We ate breakfast several times at Kolderaj, a little bakery with comfy outdoor seating right next to the harbour. Don’t get me wrong here pals- this little bakery is not a swanky establishment- but the coffee is great, the selection of baked breads and pastries is fresh and consistently delicious, and the fact that we could sit outside in the sun sealed the deal. (It also happened to be directly beneath the apartment we stayed in. Very convenient.)
Another option for breakfast with a pretty view of the harbour, is Frutarija. Cocktail bar by night, open-air restaurant by day, the waterfront location is perfect. This is definitely a more expensive option than heading to a local bakery, (the portions of smoothie bowls and granola etc, aren’t massive for the price), but the view and pretty stone terrace makes up for it.
Daytime
Vis is a very low-key town, but during the day the narrow streets begin to fill with day-trippers meandering around the little boutiques and through tiny squares. The main part of town- right by the ferry pier- is characterised by majestic-looking 17th and 18th century palaces with stone balconies and arched windows. Tall palm trees stand solidly in the airy squares and cafes and bars fill outside with as many locals as visitors. The really lovely thing about this town is that although it’s very welcoming, everything within it is not geared towards tourists.
Centuries ago, this part of Europe was held under Roman rule, so there are plenty of Roman ruins over on the mainland- even an entire city at Salona, near Split. And Vis has its own share of Roman rubble, too. (It’s. alot more than just rubble, pals, but I just love the alliteration, you know?) Just around the harbour and past the miniscule petrol station- which is really a couple of pumps and a person- are some amazingly preserved Roman baths and their stunning floor mosaics.
Keep going to the little Monastery of St Jerome, which was built on the foundations of a Roman theatre in the 16th century. As well as being a historically and religiously significant location, these days this pretty church and its monastery has even more of a draw for visitors: it’s one of the filming locations for Mamma Mia 2, which was filmed here on the island.
If you head further around the bay from the church, you’ll find Vis Town’s beach, hidden away from the harbour. Prirovro Beach might technically a ‘city’ beach, but the water is completely clear and it doesn’t tend to get overcrowded. (Perhaps because on Vis, at least up until now, overcrowding in general has never really been an issue.)
If a day trip from Vis town is more up your street, there are plenty of options, particularly if you have a car. (Although a bus does connect Vis to Komiža, an even prettier (and sleepier) town on the other side of the island.) Whether its hiking to secret beaches, sailing across to hidden caves and other islands, or exploring Cold War bunkers (or, alternatively, just strolling at a very relaxed pace through sleepy villages), the island is a treasure trove of adventures. And the mountainous countryside dotted with olive trees and fields is too beautiful to miss.
Read my detailed guide to the best things to do on Vis Island.
Evening
Golden hour remains at the number one spot for my favourite time of day, wherever you are in the world, and Vis Town is definitely at its prettiest as the sun sets and dusk’s lavender tones come out on a summer evening. Wander along the harbour front to the Kut area of town, which is a quiet area filled with old square palaces, churches and crumbling stone houses. In summer the yacht crowd may well be in town (Below Deck eat your heart out), but the atmosphere is warm and friendly, and still fairly subdued.
For dinner in Vis, you’re spoilt for choice. Kariojola Pizzeria has a relaxed but romantic atmosphere in the evenings and occupies a lovely spot next to the water; the thin-crust pizza is downright delicious and the local wines are great. There is plenty of pizza to be found in Croatia, and Pizzeria Charly is a busier spot closer to the centre of town. The vibe is way more touristy, but the pizza is great and we actually ate here for lunch.
Kod Paveta was recommended to us, and I’m happy to report that the recommendation was a barnstorming success! This cozy taverna has a few tables outside- where even in late September the weather at night was warm enough to sit- and the local food we tried was incredible. (Order the pršut, i.e. Croatian proscuttio. It’s the best I’ve ever tasted.)
For a more enclosed setting, and far fancier plates, head to Boccadoro. This is the house restaurant of the Hotel San Giorgio, and the combination of ambiance with incredibly presented meals using local ingredients, make the courtyard of Boccadoro the ideal place for a special meal.
After dinner- if you’ve got room- get yourself an ice cream at Pa ti Odoli, and then head to the beautiful outdoor cinema to catch a movie. The setting right next to the sea is stunning, and there’s a little bar on site if you’re feeling a bit parched. When the entire cast and crew of Mamma Mia 2 arrived on the island to start filming, they needed as many extras as they could get, so hundreds of locals were involved in the movie- and it’s shown regularly here throughout summer. (If you’re not feeling the Mamma Mia vibes, don’t worry- they show plenty of other films as well.) The movie listings are normally posted around town.
I love the rugged, rocky coastline of Croatia and its olde worlde towns, but it’s no longer the ‘hidden gem’ that it was a decade or so ago. The country’s popularity as a destination continues to grow. Parts of this nation are stunning, but also often incredibly overcrowded (I’m looking at you, Krka National Park).
Vis has managed to retain its relaxed pace of life, and for that I love it. In fact, I’d go so far as to say it’s my favourite part of Croatia. This is the kind of island- and town- which is perfect for the slow-travellers, the people-watchers, and the atmosphere-soaker-uppers; the people who like to pretend they live, all of a sudden, in their new-found location.
If you’re that kind of person, then I’m pretty certain you’ve just discovered your new favourite place. Bravo.