Some of my most favourite places that I’ve ever visited have been the little villages of the world, slightly off-the-beaten path, where life continues without too much interference from prying visitors (like, well, myself). So when I visited the Greek island of Rhodes for a few days in summer, I naturally sought out a quiet corner in which to base myself. Enter: Archangelos.
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Around 50 minutes by bus from the centre of Rhodes Town, and 35 minutes to the pretty village of Lindos, Archangelos was in the perfect location for me. Right in the centre of the eastern coast of the island of Rhodes, it’s also not far from a beach, and plenty of hiking paths into the surrounding countryside. Add in to this a stay in a stunningly pretty traditional house, and I felt that I’d discovered my dream location. Glory glory hallelujah!
As my taxi driver approached the village, however, I was surprised to see that Archangelos is actually rather on the larger side. I’d been expecting something a bit more petite, like other Greek villages I’ve stayed in- like teeny tiny Argyrades with its Venetian alleys, Pyrgos high up on a dry Santorini mountain, or Monemvasia, perched on a rock in the ocean. In contrast to these picturesque spots, I might even have said Archangelos seemed quite modern (a word which fills me with dread in certain situations. Apologies to all modern locations.)
But the taxi driver reassured me “Archangelos is a beautiful village. The most traditional village on Rhodes, you will love it!”
And you know what? He was right.
The main road running through the village is a busy one, with bakeries, supermarkets and other shops lining both sides, and it’s definitely much busier than I’d expected. But this is clearly a part of Rhodes that isn’t geared solely towards tourists- although the locals are more than welcoming- and that’s why I liked it.
Off of this main road is a rabbit-warren of narrower old streets, lined mostly with houses and the odd taverna or souvenir shop thrown in for luck. And from the exterior, the houses don’t seem like anything special: little blocks with satellite dishes hanging off of corners and black wires connecting them all together across alleyways. It’s not the most aesthetically charming place, and yet the sleepy vibe of this little village still has something special about it, which is hard to put your finger on.
Sitting comfortably behind the tightly-packed buildings, pine trees and the ornate spire of the Church of St Michael the Archangel, is a beautiful dry mountain backdrop, complete with a crumbling medieval castle keeping watch over the villagers. It took me about fifteen minutes from the centre of Archangelos to the top of the castle, past wizened old olive trees on a crumbly surface, but it’s not a strenuous climb. From here the views are stunning, and even when the wind is whipping your actual face off, I’d say it’s worth the trip.
And whilst it might not have the instant aesthetic charm of the much more popular village of Lindos, Archangelos really is renowned for preserving the traditional Rodos way of life. (Lindos may be pretty, but it’s also filling up fast with boutique hotels.) My Airbnb was in a traditional Dodecanese house, with a wood-fired oven in its courtyard for baking circular loaves of bread, and a pretty garden filled with rosemary, basil and lavender. Inside was a single room, with the bed shielded from view behind a curtain, and one wall entirely dedicated to ceramic plates, which a bride would usually bring with her on her wedding day.
It might not have been a luxury stay, but this was the perfect way to get a sense of the culture of this stunning Greek island.
This is the house I rented in Archangelos. It was absolutely gorgeous, and the exact kind of traditional stay I was after. The Anemos Traditional Villa is a similar property, which has been kept fairly close to its original early 1900s set-up and layout. Or look at the Antheia Traditional House, which has all its traditional features intact, but is a far sleeker, more luxurious version. (With a great outdoor jacuzzi.)
Three Days in Rhodes: An Itinerary