Most people arriving in La Spezia cruise port have the same destination in mind, and I’m telling you now, that is not the city of La Spezia itself. This city on the coast of Liguria is considered the gateway to Cinque Terre, one of Italy’s most stunning areas of natural beauty. Whether you want to head into the hills and mountains or are curious about what else the port of La Spezia has to offer, here’s my full guide to exploring.
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La Spezia cruise port
Let me start by saying: I advise against visiting La Spezia cruise port- and in fact, the whole of Cinque Terre- during summer. The problems with over-tourism in certain parts of Italy are well documented, and to ease pressure on the environment and local services- as well as to give yourself a more pleasant experience- you’d be wiser sticking to the shoulder season. (I also understand the hypocrisy in that piece of advice: 90% of my days docked in La Spezia cruise port have been during the summer, thanks to my job on board a cruise ship.)
At the height of summer (and, let’s face it, also at the edges of summer), La Spezia cruise port can get super crowded with tourists. And I’ll be honest, like many an Italian port, organising way too many people, is not something that the port handles well. Before I get on to the port itself, let me start by saying: however much time you think it’ll take you to get off or on to the ship, add at least half an hour to be safe.
To leave the port, passengers have to board a shuttle bus which takes you through the shipyard and to the entrance of the modern, air-conditioned (thank goodness) terminal building. The journey itself lasts only a few minutes, but shuttles often wait until they’re full before leaving and it’s forbidden to walk through the port on foot.
To return to your ship, be prepared to face some serious queues to re-enter the terminal building at La Spezia cruise port. At busy times the line can stretch way, way, out into the sun before it winds its way back into the air-con and the shade. Then of course, you’ll need to get back onto a shuttle bus to return you to the gangway of your ship.
See the exact location of La Spezia cruise port.
Is La Spezia walkable from La Spezia cruise port?
It only takes about ten minutes to walk from the cruise terminal to the city centre, and the walk along the waterfront and then through a beautiful palm-tree lined park is super pretty. The city centre is also very easy to navigate on foot.
If you want to walk from La Spezia cruise port to the train station, it’ll take roughly 25 minutes. So if you’ve not got a lot of time, consider taking a taxi from outside the port; there are always drivers waiting nearby.
What’s in La Spezia?
La Spezia is, in my opinion, the place for a good old fashioned wander combined with a healthy dose of eating and drinking as much of the delights that Italy has to offer as you possibly can.
Unlike the colourful patchwork houses stacked into the green hills and valleys of Cinque Terre, La Spezia has a certain kind of elegance about it; this is a different side of Liguria, but one well worth exploring. Wide open boulevards are lined with art nouveau palazzos in pistachio-greens, warm terracottas and buttercup yellows. On a hill above the city is the 14th century Castello di San Giorgio, which in addition to being a great viewpoint across the Ligurian Sea, is now home to an archaeological museum containing artefacts from the local area.
What to eat in La Spezia
Even if you’re heading into one of the five villages, in my opinion you’d be better off eating in La Spezia either before or after your visit to Cinque Terre. You’ll be far more likely to find a table, the prices are far more reasonable, and there is no difference whatsoever in the quality of food; in fact you’ll have way more choice by sticking to La Spezia to eat.
And before I get on to my favourite places to eat and drink in La Spezia, let me start by saying that wherever you end up sitting down to dine, one of the best things to try in this region is trofie al pesto. Trofie is the classic handmade Ligurian pasta, and pesto is- you guessed it- the bright green sauce made from basil, garlic, olive oil, pine nuts, parmigiano reggiano and pecorino cheese. (Whenever I ate pesto in Liguria, it’s been far more liquid-y in consistency than the pesto sauces I’ve had at home in England, just to prepare you.)
If you get a chance, have a try of farinata di ceci as well. This is a simple chickpea flatbread, which legend has it was invented when a storm hit Genoese ships heading home after a battle in the 13th century. Barrels containing chickpea flour and olive oil burst open, and with no other option the soldiers placed the combined mixture in the sun to dry, before eating it. And inventing this rather delicious bread in the process.
My favourite places to eat and drink
If you’re heading out from the cruise port in search of a bite to eat (or a drink to down), here are a few of my favourites.
For drinks, a quick coffee and breakfast (or a truly delicious sandwich on focaccia) head to Orange Cafe. This cozy little nook has a small outside terrace in front, and more seating inside. The coffee is great, the food is tasty, and the atmosphere is downright lovely.
My current favourite restaurant in La Spezia is the beautiful Osteria da Bartali, which is on a quiet little street in the city centre. The menu isn’t massive, but what it does it does really well: simple, elegantly-served Ligurian dishes, made from sumptuous local ingredients. You won’t find pizza here, and most dishes involve fresh seafood. Tables fill up quickly when the restaurant opens for lunch, so you’d be wise to book ahead.
If it’s pizza you’re after, head to La Pia Centenaria. This unassuming spot doesn’t look like much, but it’s truly the best place in La Spezia for authentic farinata. La Pia Centenaria began life as a street food vendor in 1887, and after it was destroyed during the bombing of the Second World War, it rose again like a phoenix from the ashes. (Thank goodness, as both the pizza and the farinola are downright delicious, and as popular with locals as tourists.)
The best excursions from La Spezia cruise port
Cinque Terre
I was lucky enough to spend around four months docking in La Spezia every single week, and so I had the luxury of putting off my trips to Cinque Terre until early autumn. It was still fairly busy, but I’m glad that I could at least avoid the absolute height of the season. I am not a crowd kind of a gal, and sometimes witnessing flocks of people treat a place as if it’s Disney Land leaves me with a sour taste in my mouth.
However, I appreciate that you might not have the same luxury of time.
If you want to head to Cinque Terre on an excursion from La Spezia cruise port, you have a few options. To visit under your own steam, the only way to get into the villages is by train, but I absolutely wholeheartedly do not recommend trying to see all five in one day. Better to stick to one or two at the most and actually see them properly. I hiked from Riomaggiore to Manarola, and hiking is definitely a brilliant way to see the stunning natural beauty of the area as well as the beautiful villages themselves.
You can buy your train ticket either at the station or online. It’s expensive for what is essentially a very short journey (it only takes 8 minutes to reach Riomaggiore, the closest village to La Spezia), but it’s the only way to access the area.
Check train times and tickets to Cinque Terre.
If you’d rather have a guide, I’d strongly advise against a group tour, mainly because of the practicalities of trying to see these teeny-tiny streets as part of a herd of people. A private tour obviously comes with a price tag attached, but the benefit is a far more personal experience which is tailored to you. This private tour is specifically designed for cruise passengers, but uses a local guide with incredible knowledge of the area, and includes train and boat transport between three of the villages.
For a really unique, memorable way of seeing Cinque Terre and the neighbouring coastline, you can’t go wrong with a boat. This boat tour departs from La Spezia and takes passengers along the rugged coastline to Porto Venere and beyond, allowing you to not only take in the stunning scenery but also enjoy a local aperitif and a cool dip in the Ligurian Sea. And this round-trip private boat tour takes you all the way past each of the five villages of Cinque Terre, with a tasty local food and wines served to you on board. I actually think, if you’re docking in La Spezia cruise port in summer, this is the best way to experience Cinque Terre (and far more relaxing than contending with the crowds of the train carriages and narrow streets.)
Pisa
Second to Cinque Terre, Pisa is another really popular place to visit for a day trip from La Spezia cruise port. It only takes around an hour by road, and an hour and ten minutes by train, although again: at the height of the summer this is a beautiful but extremely packed city.
Pisa is very easy to explore on your own, however if you want a guided tour there are plenty of highly-rated tours available, with transport to and from Pisa included. Check guided tours from La Spezia cruise port to Pisa.
Check train times and tickets to Pisa.
Florence and Chianti
Florence is an incredible city, although personally I think it’s too big to truly appreciate in a day, and it’ll take an hour and a half to reach by train, or two hours by road. It’s a long way to go to not see very much. Better to find a more interesting way to experience the city, rather than frantically run through the streets ticking off photo opportunities. This excursion takes you through the Tuscan countryside to San Michele a Torri for a Chianti wine tasting, then onwards to Florence and back to La Spezia.
Check train times and tickets to Florence.
Lucca
For a city which is a little lesser-known, head from La Spezia to Lucca. It’ll take about an hour and ten minutes by train (and you’ll need to change trains once), but this quiet city is a true gem of Tuscany which is well worth a visit. The skyline of the old city is characterised by its many medieval towers, and it’s one of my favourite cities in Italy thanks to its quieter pace and more relaxed vibe than other more crowded (and well-known) cities like Rome or Naples.
Check train times and tickets to Lucca.
More from Italy:
Exploring Civatecchia, the Gateway to Rome
Hiking the Hard Way in Cinque Terre
A Photo Diary from Vernazza, Cinque Terre