Corsica is a wonderfully rugged and wild island, strewn with pine forests and permeated with rough rocky peaks and sturdy medieval towers. Docking in Ajaccio cruise port, however, you could almost overlook how close those untamed landscapes are: because Ajaccio has a definite ‘chicness’ about it, despite its petite size. I love it here. And pals: I think you might, too.
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Although the island is part of France, Corsica is geographically slightly closer to Italy- in fact you can take a ferry from Corsica to Sardinia in only 4 hours and 40 minutes. As you might imagine then, the Corsican culture is a unique blend of French sophistication and laid-back Italian vibes, and that’s reflected everywhere, including (perhaps most importantly) the food. But I’ll get to that later.
Where is Ajaccio cruise port?
Ships docking in Corsica are in luck: this is a teeny tiny town. Which means that unlike most other ports in the Western Mediterranean which are located slightly outside of the city (like Palma de Mallorca, Civitavecchia, Marseille and Barcelona), Ajaccio cruise port is only five minutes walk from the centre of town. No waiting for shuttle buses, and you can literally just stroll off of the ship with no time to lose.
There’s a rather cavernous terminal building with wifi, but passengers don’t necessarily need to walk through it to embark or disembark, as there’s also an open air gate to the left hand side of the building as you look at it (from the ship’s perspective). Occasionally if the pier is full, ships will moor in the bay and transport passengers by tender boat to the dock.
The French/Italian job: a brief history of Corsica
Although people had lived on the spot for centuries, Ajaccio was officially founded by the Genoese (i.e. the Republic of Genoa, in what is now part of northern Italy) in 1492. By the 18th century however, the Corsicans were very much up for having their own freedom, and they began a revolution against the Genoese. Gradually, they began to take control of parts of the island, and in 1755 the official Corsican Constitution had been written.
However, the Genoese hadn’t fully left the island yet, and were still gripping on to the island as tightly as they possibly could. After battling various battles during the Seven Years War, the Republic of Genoa had huge debts to pay, so they signed control of Corsica over to the French in the Treaty of Versailles. Which put into motion a full scale invasion and subsequent occupation by the French. (How very awkward.)
The Corsicans fought hard against the French occupation, and Napoleon Bonaparte himself was born into a Corsican Nationalist family who were part of the resistance. Perhaps it’s ironic then, that as he grew older Napoleon fought in the French army and eventually declared himself the Emperor of France. To this day, Napoleon Bonaparte is the most famous Corsican to have ever lived, and Corsica remains a French island- with French as the official language.
The best things to do in Ajaccio cruise port
The centre of Ajaccio is small, but the beauty of it (aside from, literally, the beauty of it), is that this means it’s incredibly easy to navigate on foot. There’s also plenty to see and do here, even if you don’t fancy getting out and exploring further into the island.
Stroll the streets of Ajaccio
Ajaccio cruise port is well-placed to just hop off of the ship and head straight into the city for a stroll, and these streets are definitely ideal for a slow-paced meander. Pastel coloured buildings have pretty shuttered windows, and lanes are lined with palm trees and colourful flowers. It’s an absolute beaut, I tell ya.
There are plenty of boutiquey shops to browse in as well, although my favourite of all is Brocatypik, which is a brocante filled with all manner of weird and wonderful objects. If you’re not familiar with the term brocante, that would be a type of French flea-market or antique shop; often you’ll be as likely to find a piece of Louis XIV furniture as a basket filled with old Hot Wheels cars for sale. That’s the beauty of it.
Hit the market
Good news, pals: the central market is right next to Ajaccio cruise port, and it’s a 10/10 place for a wander. Market stalls sell a wide range of local products to take home with you, or alternatively to try straight away.
Sample fresh olives, Corsican cheese and charcuterie, honey and wine, and grab yourselves a bunch of flowers while you’re at it. Although most of the market is under cover, it sometimes expands outwards into the open air with more clothing and gift stalls.
Marche d’Ajaccio is open 7am-2pm every day except Monday.
Head to the beach
Words cannot begin to describe my love for the beaches in Corsica, and the beauty of Ajaccio cruise port is that there are several within walking distance. The turquoise water is pristine, and the sand is completely soft underfoot; Ajaccio’s beaches are also great for families as it’s a fairly shallow spot for swimming.
There are two main choices of beaches near Ajaccio cruise port. The first is the Plage Saint-Francois, which is just beyond the old fortress and about ten minutes walk from the pier. The beach is quite a narrow strip of sand, and to reach it you’ll need to walk down a flight of stone steps. The fact that it’s so narrow does mean that it fills up quickly, and in the busy summer months this beach can get extremely packed, but the crowds tend to thin out as golden hour hits.
Plage Trottel is slightly further away- around 20 minutes walk from Ajaccio cruise port. This is a much wider, more accessible beach, with more space and way more facilities. (We’re talking bars, restaurants, and volleyball courts.) This definitely has more of a ‘city beach’ vibe, but the draw of this one is that there’s much more room for everyone to fit in.
Alternatively, hop on to the L5 bus towards Pointe de la Parata and see where you end up. The L5 is the beach shuttle, and almost every stop along the coastal road is right next to a beach. Whether you’re after a wilder, less populated spot, or a swanky beach club with aperols galore, take your pick, pals.
Sail away, sail away sail away
If you’re up for an adventure, head out on a boat to the Sanguinaires archipelago. Just like the island’s interior, Corsica’s coastline is craggy and wizened, filled with jagged rocks and pretty nooks and crannies to discover. The Sanguinaires islands are beautiful droplets not far from Ajaccio, crowned by a windswept lighthouse, and the only way to reach them is by boat.
You can book a boat trip in advance and still have plenty of time to come back and explore Ajaccio at your own pace.
Walk in Napoleon’s footsteps
One for the history buffs: it goes without saying that Napoleon is kind of a big deal here in Ajaccio.
The Musée Maison Bonaparte is the sandy-hued house in the centre of Ajaccio where Napoleon was born in 1769. Much later on, the house was turned into a museum, and it’s a great starting place to learn about the Emperor and his family and their links with Corsica. (Napoleon’s wife Josephine was also an island-life kind of a lass, although she was born on the island of Martinique.)
If you want to soak in as much Napoleonic knowledge as you possibly can, take a guided walking tour through the city. They’ll take you to all the hotspots and share all the stories you could possibly need to know.
Take a hike
Even with a mere day to explore this magical island, you can still see a lot- and one of my favourite things to do when docked in Ajaccio is to take a bus to Pointe de la Parata and hike around the area. The landscape is nothing short of spectacular, and there are several routes you can head out onto.
The easiest of all is to continue to Pointe de la Parata and loop around the old Genoese tower, from where you can look out towards the Iles Sanguinaires. But for something more off the beaten track you can head further along the coastline and more into the wilderness. (Maybe bumping into a few rock climbers as you go; they love it here.) This untamed part of the island is filled with surprises, with bright pops of colour in the form of tiny wildflowers, prickly sea urchins and bulbous jellyfish.
To get to Pointe de la Parata from Ajaccio, take bus L5 from Place de Gaulle. It’ll cost €3 and the journey takes around half an hour depending on traffic.
Read my complete guide to hiking at Pointe de la Parata.
My favourite places to eat and drink near Ajaccio cruise port
My absolute favourite place to eat in Ajaccio is Rosette et Charlot, a rustic little restaurant which serves an ever-changing seasonal menu on tableware that looks like it came straight from the kitchen of a French grandmother. The atmosphere is relaxed, the vibe is downright charming, and the food is mouthwateringly delicious. This pretty little restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, but if you’re after breakfast or brunch in Ajaccio then head straight over to Mile End Cafe.
For a complete list of my favourite eateries in Ajaccio, head on over here.
The wildcard: visit the cemetery
I really do appreciate that a trip to the cemetery is most certainly not everybody’s cup of tea, pals. Even when it’s a cemetery as pretty as this one. And that’s ok. But if you are looking for somewhere unique to visit in Ajaccio, the Cimetiere des Sanguinaires is a genuinely beautiful spot.
The cemetery is gargantuan in size, and the family chapels arranged along little lanes overlooking the sea give the impression of a small town rather than a graveyard. Legend has it that during the Second World War when Ajaccio was in danger of being shelled by the German forces, the residents of Ajaccio placed lights in the chapels of the cemetery and blacked out their own windows and streets, confusing the enemy and saving the city.
Pals, I cannot get enough of Corsica, and Ajaccio cruise port is undoubtedly my personal favourite Mediterranean port. Its easy elegance, the glorious crystal clear sea, and the rugged nature that lies just a short distance away, combine to make- in my opinion- the perfect place.
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