A charcoal-coloured sandy beach, rows of houses with carved wooden balconies, and a curious obsession with a dwarf in a tricorn hat make Santa Cruz de la Palma cruise port an intriguing stop in Spain’s Canary Islands. This city (which is more like a town) is a true hidden gem.
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The quiet, understated vibe of La Palma is a breath of fresh air compared to the tourist magnets of Tenerife and Gran Canaria. Part of La Palma’s charm is that it hasn’t fallen victim to mass tourism, and it’s still one of the least-visited of the Canary Islands. This unique little island has held onto its traditions, and is home to some of the Canaries’ most stunning areas of natural beauty; it’s perfect for anyone who’s wanting to experience an authentic slice of Canary Island life. Here’s what’s to see in the immediate vicinity of Santa Cruz de la Palma cruise port. (Because this petite city is well worth an explore.)
A very brief introduction to La Palma
During my first visit to La Palma, a lovely taxi driver made an incredibly bold claim, which I’m still not entirely sure is true, but I’ll roll with it anyway: “The Madonna song ‘La Isla Bonita,’ was written about this very island!” Maybe it was, and maybe it wasn’t- but the driver’s eyes were shining so brightly and eagerly that we all nodded in appreciation and wonder that Madonna would sing a song about little old La Palma.
In any case, there’s no denying that it is indeed an Isla Bonita.
For those not familiar with the Canary Islands archipelago, these islands off the coast of West Africa were colonised by the Spanish several hundred years ago, and each one has a whole different vibe to the next. La Palma is one of the smaller of the seven Canary Islands, but it has an abundance of tropical flowers and fruit growing here, and for anyone who loves being in the great outdoors it definitely packs a punch. It’s also famous as one of the world’s best spots to stargaze- second only to Hawaii– with an observatory right at the top of el Roque de los Muchachos.
Then of course, there are the volcanos. The Canary Islands were all formed by volcanic eruptions, and La Palma is home to one of the Canaries’ most active volcanic areas. The Cumbre Vieja– a volcanic ridge which runs like a spine through the south of the island- last erupted in 2021, spewing lava into the air in an eruption that lasted eighty five days. Powerful stuff, pals.
Santa Cruz de la Palma cruise port
The cruise port is conveniently located right next to the city, so there’s no need to get a shuttle or a taxi into town: you can just hop straight off the ship and mosey on down. It has a terminal building with bathroom facilities, wifi, and a few gift shops, and early in the day it’s likely that you’ll find a gaggle of taxi drivers outside the building ready to whisk you off around the island.
Santa Cruz de la Palma cruise port on a map.
There’s nowhere to eat in the terminal building, but just outside the port gates there’s a Mcdonald’s and some car hire offices. (Am I suggesting that, as a passenger, you head straight outside to McDonalds? Most certainly not. But for crew members those Golden Arches provide a world-renowned safe haven with cheap food and good wifi.)
It’s also very easy to navigate your way to the city, even if you don’t have phone service (though I’d recommend getting an eSIM ahead of time anyway if you’re heading out on a cruise). To the left of the pier is a jagged green mountain, and to the right is the beach and the buildings of Santa Cruz. There’s no way you can miss it.
What’s with the dwarf?
As you stroll around Santa Cruz de la Palma, you’ll probably- if you’re an observant sort of a person- start to notice the dwarves in majestic Napoleonic hats. These guys are on souvenirs, they’re in peoples’ gardens, and there’s even a big statue of one- the Monument a el Enano- right next to an old ship in town. (More on that below.)
The dwarf in the Napoleonic hat is an emblem of La Palma which is thought to have originated from an eighteenth century lottery mascot called the ‘lucky dwarf,’ and he plays an important role in La Palma’s most important festival. Every five years the island celebrates La Bajada de la Virgen de las Nieves. The effigy of the Virgin of the Snows is paraded through the streets, which is a downright fantastical sight to witness. But the grand finale of the occasion is the Dance of the Dwarves, during which men dressed as bishops walk into a tent, and exit the other side dressed as dwarves in Napoleonic hats.
Naturally, they dance the polka. Why would they not?
What to do in Santa Cruz de la Palma cruise port
Head to the black sand beach
This black sand beach is mere footsteps away from the cruise port, in fact, you can’t help but walk past it on the way to the city. The sand is black because of the volcanic nature of the island, although you will find a few white sand or pebbly beaches in La Palma. (Also, fun fact: the beach is actually a man-made creation.) Even on a sunny day, this beach doesn’t tend to get overcrowded, mainly because La Palma is just a quieter island.
It’s got facilities like bathrooms, changing rooms and showers, as well as lifeguard stations. And just across the street you’ll find plenty of restaurants, bars, and ice cream shops if you get peckish.
Here is the exact location on Google Maps.
Explore the town
Santa Cruz de La Palma may be petite, but that means that it’s the perfect place for exploring on foot. Once upon a time, this was one of the most important commercial ports in Spain, and the town’s cobblestone streets are full of old churches, palaces and plazas that were built during its super-wealthy colonial period.
Look out for the beautiful carved wooden balconies along the Avenida Marítima and the surrounding areas, some of which are overspilling with plants and flowers, and don’t miss the stunning Plaza de España with its beautiful monochrome town hall and church.
At the far end of the Main Street you’ll find a beautiful square, crowned with a replica of a Spanish caravel ship- inside which is the naval museum. Check it out here.
Grab a Canary Islands coffee
No trip to the Canary Islands would be complete without a mention of their local coffee. Either order a leche leche– espresso, milk, and condensed milk- or go for the alcoholic version, known as a barraquito. This little guy contains all of the aforementioned ingredients, plus a shot of Licor 43, perhaps a sprinkling of cinnamon, and a strip of lemon or lime zest. It’s probably best not to add sugar to this one, I’m telling you now.
For coffee in a historic spot in Santa Cruz de la Palma, head to the internal courtyard of El Cafe de Don Manuel. The location couldn’t be better, and although it’s on the Main Street it’s also missed by many as it’s slightly tucked away. The coffee is great, the vibes are friendly, and the building is 10/10.
For a much cooler vibe, get yourself down to the Banana Garden. This beautiful boutique hotel has a great coffee shop on the ground floor with seating outside and in, and (I’m told), a fabulous rooftop bar. I love this place, and the food is great too.
Hike up to a viewpoint
La Palma is the perfect island for lovers of the great outdoors to explore, with a web of hiking paths running all across its mountains and forests. But even if you don’t have enough time to explore further outside of the city- I’m looking at you, crew members- it’s still possible to leave the centre of town for a different perspective. Just head up!
We spent an afternoon hiking in an attempt to find a waterfall, which didn’t actually pay off, as that year had been particularly dry. There was not a single drop of water to be found, alas. But it was still great to be so much higher up, with Santa Cruz de la Palma cruise port directly beneath us.
Another easy hike from the cruise port is to the Castillo de la Virgen, a white fortress built during the 17th Century to defend the town from English pirate attacks. It’s a pretty spot which is free to visit, and it has some beautiful views of town and the surrounding coastline.
The best excursions from Santa Cruz de la Palma cruise port
I spent a wonderful day exploring La Palma with a taxi driver who took us to highlights including the stunning Roque de Los Muchachos and the Observatory; this was something we organised on the day, so it’s very possible to do. (As long as you nab the taxi drivers in time.) The views from up there are absolutely magnificent, and even if there are clouds beneath you it’s still a magical sight.
However, there are also plenty of guided tours available- and I’d always suggest going with a private tour over one organised by a cruise line, partly to support local tour operators and partly to have a more personalised experience. You could hike across La Palma’s newest volcano with a guide, or head out on a boat to go dolphin-watching. The island is your oyster, pals!
Hotel tip: the prettiest hotel in Santa Cruz de la Palma
If you happen to have stumbled across this page and are now thinking you’d actually rather stick around in Santa Cruz for longer than a day (I don’t blame you, I myself am tempted to head back to see more of the unofficial Isla Bonita), the Banana Garden is without a doubt the place to look at. The rooms are beautifully decorated, I can personally vouch for the friendliness of the staff, and the food and location is perfect.
Need to Know: Before you visit
- La Palma may well be closer to Africa than mainland Europe, but it’s still part of Spain. Act accordingly when choosing your eSIM (I’ve got a discount code for you here.)
- Spanish is the official language here. (Duh.) You’ll get by with English, but that doesn’t mean that everyone speaks it fluently. A few Spanish words will get you a long way.
- As a Spanish island, the afternoon siesta is supported. It’s normal for shops to close between 1pm and 5pm, although you’ll find a few exceptions in more touristy locations.
- The climate is fairly consistent year-round, sitting comfortably in 20ºcs as a general rule. Athough you’d be wise to pack thin layers; rain and grey skies are a thing here as well as sunshine.
- Currency is the euro.
More from the Canary Islands
A Boutique Bolthole in Santa Cruz de Tenerife
How to Visit Timanfaya National Park
Lanzarote Cruise Port: The Complete Guide