The port of Civitavecchia is often sold as ‘The Gateway to Rome’, which is a little misleading considering Rome is over an hour away by road. However while many people skip Civitavecchia completely in favour of the Colosseum and other Roman treats, this little port city is worth a look in too. This place has definitely grown on me over the years, so here for your reading pleasure are the best things to do in Civitavecchia.
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Why is Civitavecchia the ‘Gateway to Rome?’
Civitavecchia is located on the west coast of the great big golden boot of Italy, and to be completely honest the name ‘Gateway to Rome’ makes the city sound far more glamorous than it actually is. Don’t get me wrong guys, the city has been considered Rome’s port for CENTURIES; just don’t be fooled into thinking that means that Rome is by the sea.
In actual fact it’ll take you just short of an hour to get from Civitavecchia to Rome by train. So, whilst I’m not going to lie and tell you that this is secretly the most stunning city in the world, I would like to fill you in on the prettier, more interesting areas to explore and places to eat, as well as all the ways you can get from Civitavecchia to Rome.
Or, as we began to call it on the ship- ‘Chivvy.’
Arriving in Civitavecchia by cruise ship
I was visiting Civitavecchia regularly as part of a Mediterranean cruise itinerary which started in its home port of Palma de Mallorca, and travelled on to Livorno, Barcelona, and Marseille; and many western Mediterranean cruises follow a similar route.
The day that I first arrived in Civitavecchia, I wrongly presumed it to be one of the most boring ports that I had ever set foot in. (WRONG. That prize currently goes to mouldy Molde in Norway. Sorry Molde.)
The buildings on the main street seemed devoid of much personality save for a church which had its doors firmly closed. There didn’t seem to be very much going on at all. If you get a shuttle from the Civitavecchia port to the city, they are also super cheeky and sometimes drop you miles away from anything. So you either have to walk for about fifteen minutes down a long and boring road, or pay to get a taxi to take you to the same train station that the shuttle basically just drove past.
It’s a classic cruise ship manoeuvre, pals- don’t fall for it!
The majority of my cruise ship crew pals pretty much just stuck to the same WiFi-cafes (or McDonalds), and didn’t really consider the notion of attempting to find anywhere more interesting to head to within the hypothetical city walls.
And I can’t say I blame them. Not at first, at least.
Related: Exploring Livorno, Tuscany’s Secret City
The Best Things to do in Civitavecchia
Discover the Old Town
I’m glad we explored a little further, and gave poor old Chivvy a second chance. Otherwise I’d never have known that there is more character to it, after all! A mere stones throw away from the main road, is the old town, filled with crumbly buildings in an Autumnal pallet of oranges, pinks and yellows.
It’s actually rather pretty.
Once the Medieval heart of Civitavecchia, the tiny mish-mash of streets and squares actually holds a host of stories and mysterious goings-on. Piazza Leandra, with its old moss-covered fountain, is the oldest square in the city, and on the interior walls of a house on this square are preparatory drawings for some frescoes from the inside of the Vatican. An old lad discovered them in the seventies, after he bought the house and began peeling away at the layers of wallpaper to redecorate.
What an absolute find that was. It’s stories like that one that could convince more people to stick around within the city instead of hop on the first train out of there as soon as they arrive.
That Time We Got Kicked Out of the Vatican City
Get your food fix at the market
Truly one of my favourite things to do in Civitavecchia, come rain or shine, is hit the market and purchase as much food as possible. Believe it or not, crew mess food can sometimes be rather questionable, both in terms of quality and in terms of simply knowing what it actually is. If I can get off the ship early enough, I head to Civitavecchia market, bustling with all the people, to buy a picnic of all the fresh goods. Then swiftly proceed to eat it sitting in the fresh air on a wall overlooking the port.
Mozzarella, prosciutto, salami, olives, bread…and the crowning glory- TOMATOES. Ripe, flavourful tomatoes!! When the produce in Italy is so fresh, how can you not!?
I have never eaten a flavoursome tomato on a ship. They’re always the sort that are picked too soon so that they last longer. But at the Civitavecchia market I’m always guaranteed to find the juiciest, ripest tomatoes you’ll see all cruise long!
If you want to discover the market with the help of a hugely informative guide, who can really help you to discover the best food on offer, you might want to book onto this Foodie Walking Tour. This is a super-popular thing to do in Civitavecchia, not least of all because of the downright delicious treats on offer.
Hit the beach
Whether you’re docking here in winter or summer, the pebble beach is a beautiful place to relax, especially if you don’t have a lot of time spare from the ship. It’s quick and easy to walk from the cruise terminal to Civitavecchia beach, and it’s also very safe to walk along the seafront, with a fairly relaxed vibe.
There are palm trees running the length of the promenade, with some great beach bars and restaurants to find as you walk parallel with the sea. My favourite beach spot in Civitavecchia is Spiaggia il Pirgo, just a little further along than the train station.
Have a soak in the baths
On the very edges of the city, is Terme Ficoncella, a complex of five natural thermal pools. This is a hugely popular spot with the locals, although the healing pools do attract plenty of outside guests as well. While the facilities here are quite basic, at less than €2.50 per person to enter, you can hardly complain!
You can easily get a taxi from the port to the thermal baths.
Where to grab a coffee in Civitavecchia
For the most delectable pastries and coffee in Civitavecchia, head to Bar Pasticceria Danilo. This cozy little place on a corner became my go-to coffee stop, because as well as coffee they had a gargantuan selection of cakes and pastries.
Not only are the staff always super-friendly, they also always remembered that I would probably be wanting a WiFi Code with my coffee- and for this I applaud them. What a bunch of good’uns. I spent Christmas Eve hanging out here with my pal Gospel, eating all the Christmas-themed cannoli, downing coffees, and cheering each other up with tales of what Christmas was like in our respective countries.
A close second for coffee and pastries in Civitavecchia is La Fontana Caffetteria Pasticceria, overlooking that lovely old fountain that I mentioned earlier. Inside, the cafe feels almost as if it’s been built into the walls of a cave (it hasn’t, it’s just got really low ceilings), and it has an old town vibe to match its old town surroundings.
Where to eat in Civitavecchia
It makes sense that as a port city, the main thing you should be eating in Civitavecchia (aside from the pastries) is seafood. In fact, word on the street is that people come all the way from Rome just to sample the fish here. (That might be pushing it a bit, but it wouldn’t be a very good guide to Civitavecchia if I didn’t mention the word on the street.)
There are a whole tone of seafood restaurants to choose from, and in my opinion some of the best ones to be found are right on the seafront, with a glorious view of the sea. My absolute favourite restaurant in Civitavecchia is Il Delfino, which is on the seafront overlooking the beach; I am telling no exaggeration when I say this is where I ate the best pasta I have ever eaten in the history of my whole life. I still dream about it.
If you’re after a pizza in Civitavecchia, head to Pizzeria Del Ghetto. This local hangout is by no means glamorous, but the pizza is some of the best I’ve ever tasted. Highly recommended, pals.
Did you ever hear of the Orecchiette Ladies of Bari?
How to get the train from Civitavecchia to Rome
It’s ridiculously easy and cheap to get from Civitavecchia to Rome by train, and you will have way more time and freedom to explore if you go it alone. It’s possible to walk from Civitavecchia port to the train station in around 15-20 minutes (or you can get a cruise shuttle to the port exit and then walk the remaining 5 minutes to the train station.)
At Civitavecchia station, you can get a ticket from either the ticket booths, or the machines, and both options accept cash and card. (The machines also very helpfully warn you in a really loud mechanical voice to beware of pickpockets.)
For around €4 each way, you can boogy on out all the way to Roma Termini, or stop on the way at the Vatican, or Trastevere. Trains run roughly twice an hour, although it makes sense to double check the old timetable before you leave, and once there it’s incredibly easy to find your way around the city because Roma Termini is smack bang in the centre of everything you might want to see.
Make sure you validate your train ticket by punching it one of the machines, before you board the train.
Planned excursions to Rome
The majority of cruise ships that dock in Civitavecchia stay in port for a long time, to allow a full day of exploration in the city. So, if you want the comfort of a tour that’s arranged for you and encompasses all the sights, this small group tour is a great choice. The company can also arrange skip-the-line tickets to Rome’s biggest sights on your behalf.
Other popular day trips from Civitavecchia
Before the Romans, there was the Etruscans, and in the nearby city of Tarquinia you can visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Etruscan necropolis which is over 3000 years old. This is a great off-the-beaten-path tour to Tarquinia, and the day includes an Italian lunch and transport to and from the port.
Although Civitavecchia is in the Lazio region, it’s not far from the south of Tuscany, and if you’d rather change it up from a trip to Rome (or just don’t fancy strolling round a city in the Mediterranean heat), you could book a trip to explore Tuscany. This particular tour takes passengers through the Tuscan countryside to enjoy wine tastings and some time at the beautiful Saturnia hot springs.
Or head to the Dying City, which will inevitably crumble into the surrounding countryside as time wears on- hence the name. The hilltop town is stunning, and sits at the border of Lazio and Tuscany. This tour goes to the Dying City and then on to the Monster Park, which is a 16th century Italianate garden dotted with sculptures of fantastical beasts.
