Cobblestone streets, higgledy-piggledy houses and roads with fairy-tale names give this little Sussex town an air of magic. Add all that to its murky past filled with smuggler gangs and French raiders and you can just feel the layers upon layers of stories seeping out from every crack in the ground. Here are the best things to do in Rye, whether on a day trip or a weekend break.
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Wander along Mermaid Street
Rye is an easily walkable little town, and you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time on just about any one of its narrow lanes. But probably the most well-known pathways to wander is Mermaid Street, a cobblestone hill lined with some exceedingly quaint houses and inns.
The higgledy-piggledy looking Mermaid Inn is about halfway down the lane, and although the original inn was built in 1156 (the original cellars are still there), it was rebuilt in the 1420s.
So pals, this is one ragingly ancient pub.
In the 1730s and 40s the Mermaid Inn was a hangout for the notorious Hawkhurst Gang. Nowadays it’s odd to think of the little village of Hawkhurst as the homeplace of a dangerous gang, but back then smuggling was all the rage along the South coast of England. The Hawkhurst Gang pretty much controlled the entire area, brandishing their pistols and knives and smoking all the pipes. True story.
Something nearby: The Best Walks in and Around Eastbourne
Apparently the Hawkhurst Gang are still giving ‘controlling the area’ a good go, as the inn is said to be haunted by the ghosts of several gang-members and their aggrieved wives and girlfriends.
Awkward.
Down at the bottom of hill is the Mermaid Street Cafe, which serves ice cream from a little hatch in the summer time. Glorious! It also sells some of the best Scotch Eggs on the planet, so if you’re a fan of these then head on over on the double.
Rye Castle – i.e. Ypres Tower
Rye has a castle!? Yes indeed my friends, there is a (albeit very small) castle in town, also known as Ypres Tower.
Back in the 12th century, Rye was actually a whole lot closer to the sea than it is now. Or rather, the sea was a lot closer to Rye. Rye Castle was originally built to help defend the town from attacks, which mostly came in the form of Frenchmen from across the channel.
Ooh la la.
A little further along the coast: Exploring Dungeness, England’s Only Official Desert
Over the years the land changed shape rather drastically. Ships couldn’t get as close and the castle was no longer needed for its original purpose. It was bought by a local named John de Iprys, then used as a prison, (also a women’s prison), a court hall, a soup kitchen and a mortuary. Repurposing at its finest.
Although Ypres Tower is currently closed due to that annoying virus, it still makes a brilliant viewpoint across the marshes towards the sea. And it’s quite awe-inspiring to realise that not that long ago, all that land simply wasn’t there at all.
A Rye pub with a view
Talking of Ypres Tower, head along the alley at the side of the tower and keep going down the narrow steps to find the best beer garden in Rye- and another really ancient little pub. The Ypres Castle Inn dates back to the 17th century and is full of cosy nooks and crannies beneath its incredibly low-beamed ceiling.
The beer garden is a lovely spot to sit in summer time, especially with that lovely view across the marshes.
Shopping old and new in Rye
Wandering around the streets is one of my favourite things to do in Rye, and it’s one of the few places in the world that I actually appreciate a spot of shopping! The town is full of quirky little boutiques, galleries and secondhand shops which tend to be locally-owned businesses.
No identikit high street to be found here, oh no sir.
Some of my favourite include Rye Pottery (where you can buy a traditional ‘Sussex Pig’ as a wedding present), The Tiny Bookstore next to the church, and Ethel Loves Me– which sells a quirky collection of gifts, art, homeware, jewellery and more. And although I’ve never made it inside- nor do I know ANYTHING about tin soldiers- but the window of Soldiers of Rye intrigues me every time.
There are antique and secondhand shops scattered throughout the whole town but without a doubt the place where you can really spend a chunk of time is on Rye Strand. Home to a whole collection of secondhand shops, this is the place to be for those who are a fan of a good rummage, and I’ve never been able to visit Rye without exploring the treasure troves of strange and wonderful things in each one.
The best hot chocolate in Rye. If not, the world.
Oh my goodness gracious me, am I glad that we stumbled across this place!?
From the exterior, it’s not clear exactly what Knoops is, or what it even sells. So thank goodness for our own curiosity, as the hot chocolate I tried here is possibly the best hot chocolate I have tried, EVER. (It even beats that one I bought at the oldest cafe in Europe, and that’s saying something).
Choose from a no-fuss list of chocolate and the lovely folks at Knoops will blend it into a delicious chocolate liquid for you while-you-wait, with added toppings if you fancy. Orange zest, star anise, cardamom and sea salt are just some of the flavours you can add to your drink.
It’s making my mouth water just thinking about it.
Also, I’m genuinely a little bit sad that there’s no Knoops near me so I can go and get another fix. For anyone travelling through London any time soon, there is now a Knoops in Clapham Junction. Just get ready to become a fully fledged chocolate addict if you weren’t one before.
St Mary’s Church
I know it’s very possible to get all ‘churched out’ when in Europe, but hear me out pals. St Mary’s Church is both beautiful, and 900 years old. So it really has seen a fair few things in its time. It even had its bells nicked by a bunch of French invaders, the dastardly villains! The bells were eventually recovered by some Rye and Winchelsea sailors (and two towns were set on fire in the process), and all was well again in the town.
What a relief.
Although the church is free to visit, you can pay a small fee to climb to the top of the tower and get a beaut view of the town and its surroundings.
Other historic buildings to see in Rye
The streets of Rye are home to a hodgepodge collection of buildings and houses from just about every era, from the Middle Ages onwards.
Back in the days when Rye was right next to the sea, The Landgate was sometimes (at high tide) the only connection to the rest of the mainland. The stone gateway is easy to find, and is right next to Knoops- so you can grab a hot chocolate while you check it out.
Half timbered houses with names like ‘The House With Two Doors’ and ‘The House Opposite’ can be spotted- so keep an eye out for quirky names on your wanderings.
And there are some stunning Georgian houses to see in other parts of the town. One of these is Lamb House which was once home to the American author Henry James, and is now owned by the National Trust. (Other past literary residents include Spike Milligan and John Ryan- who created good old Captain Pugwash, don’cha know!)
Heading to West Sussex: The Top Things to Do on a Brighton Day Trip
Where to eat in Rye
There are so many amazing places to eat in Rye that I barely know where to begin. But.
For an intimate atmosphere and the most delicious burgers known to mankind (and delicious courgette fries, also), get yourself down to The Hoof. Not only does the food taste great, but rather uniquely all of The Hoof’s beef burgers and potatoes are from their actual real live farm, just down the road.
For a modern cafe which also serves tasty local fare (with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options, head to The Fig.
If you’re up for something completely different, The Old Grain Store at the bottom of Mermaid Street sells tea and cake plus a selection of Turkish and Greek food. Tucking into one of their meze plates whilst sat in the sunshine is a downright glorious way to pass the time!
And for a very traditional tea room, check out Fletchers House. Right next to St Mary’s Church, this was once the vicarage and is the birthplace of playwright John Fletcher- one of Shakespeare’s contemporaries. Fancy that!?
Stay in the south east: Exploring Broadstairs, the seaside gem of Kent
So pals, there you have it. A lowdown on all the greatest things to do in the East Sussex town of Rye. If you fancy getting out and about, you could head down to Camber Sands or Rye Harbour- but the town itself is a beautiful place to spend a day or two.
Check out another East Sussex town on the coast: A Local’s Guide to Eastbourne, East Sussex
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Logistical Statisticals
- You can get from London to Rye by train in anywhere between 1-2 hours, depending on where you leave from! Either get the train from London Bridge or St Pancras to Ashford International, then change for a train to Rye.
- To get from Rye to Brighton, take a train to Eastbourne and then change for a train to Brighton. It’ll take about an hour and a half.
I would love to visit Rye, it looks like you’re taking a walk back through time and I love places like this!
Aww Rye looks so lovely!! I’m really hoping to go next time I’m down that way. Love the NHS sign in that window, and the tea rooms look cute as well!