The train followed the River Elbe as it meandered all the way from Dresden to the little platform in Königstein, where we hopped off eager to be in the fresh air. We knew absolutely nothing about this little river town; other than that it’s a great place to stay to explore Saxon Switzerland National Park.
Good thing that’s what we’d come here to do.
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It was late August and the temperature was still warm and wonderful as we strolled up the main road towards the village. My weekender bag may have been cutting off the circulation in my right arm, and Rachel’s wheel-along suitcase may have had a slightly dodgy wheel which tripped itself up from time to time, but it was a glorious feeling to be in the countryside again after a few days in Dresden. We clattered along wearily but merrily all the way through the main street and out the other side.
First impressions of Königstein
Königstein is a little community next to the River Elbe, in the middle of Saxon Switzerland Nation Park. The whole place looked more like I’d expect an Eastern European village to look than a German equivalent, although maybe that has something to do with the fact that it’s not far from the border of the Czech Republic.
As we clattered up the street we passed many a dusty old abandoned building, messages smeared with fingers on their dusty old windows. Newspapers were tacked up in the glass behind them, and on the exterior of the buildings, spidery gothic lettering told us what they once were.
In town, we found a cheerier collection of red-roofed houses painted in mustards, browns, sage greens and muted pinks, lining cobblestone streets. Families, hikers and bikers sat outside a few cafes and an Asia Imbiss on a little square. Flowers sat in window boxes overlooking a stream splashing down from the mountains towards the Elbe.
An old Trabant trundled past us as we continued up the street to the outskirts of the town. These blocky little tin can cars are icons of East Germany, little runaround relics from before the Berlin Wall fell. And this medieval town felt like it matched the car.
My only experiences of Germany prior to this were of the entirely different and highly cosmopolitan cities of Hamburg and Berlin. Königstein didn’t just seem to be in a different area, but a whole different era as well.
I loved it!
From Germany to the Czech Republic
How to get to Königstein
Königstein is around forty minutes by road from Dresden. However, you know me pals. I’m all about that carless lifestyle. And the town couldn’t be easier to access via public transport.
To get from Dresden to Königstein by train, take the S1 train from Dresden Hauptbanhof. The journey takes 39 minutes with no changes at all, and the journey along the River Elbe is full of beautiful views of the river and the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. A single ticket from Dresden to Königstein costs €6.80.
Check timetables on VVO’s website.
Where to stay in Königstein
Eventually we reached our Airbnb, in a massive old house in the shadow of a medieval fortress on a rocky plateau above us. It was dated, there was a high ratio of dust balls to floor square metres, but I was all round overjoyed to be there. There’s something truly brilliant about opening your curtains each morning to be greeted by a medieval castle which appears to be sitting on an actual cloud.
If you don’t fancy an Airbnb, the majority of the accommodation options in Königstein are geared towards hikers. We passed the 4Lionshostel in the centre of town plenty of times, and it’s clearly a popular place for backpackers.
For something completely different, check out Camping Königstein. As well as pitches for tents, camper vans and caravans, the site has several wooden cabins and bungalows which are bookable. (And look pretty full on cute, that’s for sure.)
Hiking in Königstein
Königstein is chockablock full of hiking paths- in fact you can set off in just abut any direction and be guaranteed to come across some really beautiful scenery. (Also some spooky houses. It goes without saying round here.)
The little town is perfectly situated next to the river, and at the foot of many a rocky, forested mountain; we saw so many arrows towards hiking paths that we were spoilt for choice. Hiking paths throughout the whole of Saxon Switzerland are brilliantly marked out, and I’d strongly advise just heading out and seeing where your heart takes you.
Starting at our Airbnb we hiked up to Festung Königstein, which was mildly slippery in the rain but also a beaut uphill climb with an amazing view at the top. On another day we walked all the way along the river front to the beautiful Bastei Bridge. It took us about two hours to walk from Königstein to Bastei, but it was worth it to see the countryside. The land around here is dotted with old crumbling barns, chickens and pumpkin patches, with an amazing backdrop of the dark sandstone mountains behind it all.
Festung Königstein
Festung Königstein occupies the top of a flat rocky outcrop above the town, in a Pride Rock kind of a fashion. Except it looks more Game of Thrones than Hakuna Matata. (Truly, this seems like the kind of place that a Wicked Queen would launch a murder of crows and a huntsman from. There’s something rather ominous about it.)
The blocky walls appear to be carved out of the mountain itself, and from its vantage point up high this place was impenetrable back in the day. So impenetrable that throughout its entire history nobody ever bothered trying to attack it.
The castle has been here since the days of the Kingdom of Bohemia in the 12th century, although as well as being an important Saxon fortress, Königstein has been home to a monastery, a prison, and perhaps most impressively- a giant wine barrel. That bad boy barrel was down to the OG party-king Augustus the Strong, and it could hold a total of 66,000 gallons of wine.
Which, you have to admit, is a truly impressive feat of engineering.
During the Second World War, Festung Königstein was used as a prisoner of war camp for Polish and French prisoners, and it’s pretty crazy to stand here and imagine all these lives in which the fortress has been the backdrop. Henri Giraud, a French general who was held captive here for two years, managed to escape by tying bed sheets, copper wire and twine together to lower himself down the cliffside. (And I’ll tell you this for free- it is one steep and crazy-looking cliffside.) He made it all the way to the Swiss border by train by assuming various disguises, the clever lad.
Abandoned building heaven
I love an abandoned building, I do. A good old fashioned and extremely weathered wall, a sprinkling of plants pushing their way through cracks in floors and forgotten newspaper cuttings and snippets of graffiti-ghosts. You just can’t go wrong, can you!?
And Königstein is an absolutely brilliant spot in Germany for stumbling across many a spooky shell of an abandoned building. The town- especially the outskirts of the town- is full of them. To be completely honest, even on a sunny day the atmosphere was almost chilling. Surely there are ghosts galore around these parts.
Whilst there are a fair few buildings which have been left to fall into complete disrepair, there are others which have had a new lease of life breathed in to them. The courtyard of an abandoned mill has been turned into a space for events named The Malerwinkel- look for the chimney amongst the town’s rooftops and you’ll find the ‘Malerwinkel’ archway underneath it. Even when there’s nothing going on, it’s a beaut place to explore.
The Abandoned Monte Palace Hotel, Portugal
Where to eat in Königstein
In all honesty, our eating arrangements in Königstein were restricted by what was open and what had space for us. For German food in town, we went to Gaststatte & Pension Amshoff. This is a friendly family-run place which was consistently busy and sells massive steins of beer. (Although, let’s face it, pretty much every restaurant in Germany sells massive steins of beer.) The food was simple but hearty and good, and the location is also great.
For coffee and cake in Königstein, head on over to Kaffeehaus Zimmermann. There is such a massive selection of cakes here that there’s surely something for everyone, and there are also cute outdoor seating areas at the front and back of the cafe.
But here is my fave of all the faves. Somehow, wherever my pal Rachel and I go, we are haunted by Greece. In a really great way. Which is why my favourite restaurant in Königstein is actually Greek. Feeling rather desperately in need of something other than rich German food (which is delicious but heavy), we were curious about Der Grieche, which was right next to Königstein train station.
After one evening there, the deal was sealed for us. The owner- who’s originally from Crete- was so super hospitable in such a classically Greek way, that we naturally went back again the next evening because we loved it so much. He brought back all the memories of The Three Keys, served some delicious Greek food in a very jolly manner, and gave us a whole load of ouzo which always goes down a treat. You can’t argue with that, can you!?
The best day trips
Although we loved our stay in this spooky-but-pretty little town, we really only decided to stay here because of its amazing location in the middle of Saxon Switzerland National Park. In addition to the hiking and general exploring we did in Königstein itself, there’s so much to see and do nearby.
If you’re using Königstein as your base, it’s definitely worth spending at least a day in the city of Dresden, the so-called Jewel Box of Germany. And the nearby town of Pirna is another cobblestone village worth an explore.
Head to the Bastei Bridge, which is probably Saxony’s most well known landmark. And in the other direction see the lovely little town of Bad Schandau (and a selection of beautiful houses and hotels, both lived-in and abandoned.) From Bad Schandau, you can either hike to the incredible rock formations of Schrammstein, or get a ferry up the River Elbe to the Czech Republic and Bohemian Switzerland. Which, believe it or not, is a real live place!
Königstein is definitely not the kind of town that foreign tourists flock to. It’s quirky, old-fashioned and very much off-the-beaten-path of Germany. But I am so so glad that we stumbled across it. For someone like myself who loves exploring the outdoors and photographic unique locations, this beautiful little town ticked all the boxes.
Good on you Königstein, you may be spooky but you’re also one pretty little place!
More from Saxony:
Altenberg, Saxony: A Ski Resort in Summer
How to Spend Three Days in Dresden
How to Hike to the Bastei Bridge
Lost in Bohemian Switzerland: A 2020 Adventure
Get off the beaten path with me: