We arrived in Broadstairs on a strangely overcast morning in June, while the sea was battering the harbour wall in mammoth crashes and explosions of saltwater. But the atmosphere did nothing to dampen our moods; at first sight of the golden curve of sand and colourful beach huts below the cliffs, we were all round captivated. In a strange way moody weather compliments the Dickensian vibe of this little seaside town, and after a while of wandering the sun decided to put in an appearance and tranquillise the sea. (More on that Dickensian vibe later.) Here are the best things to do in Broadstairs.
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How to get to Broadstairs
We drove to Broadstairs from East Sussex, however it’s very easy to reach by train as well- and if you’re heading from London to Broadstairs, it’s definitely best to get a train.
Trains run directly from London to Broadstairs, either from Victoria or St Pancras, and the journey takes between an hour and twenty to an hour and fifty minutes each way. Outside of London, Broadstairs is also connected directly by train to Ashford and Canterbury.
Check train times and tickets.
Head to Viking Bay
If you do nothing else at all, a visit to Viking Bay is the number one thing to do in Broadstairs. We arrived early in the morning when the only other people around were a cluster of lifeguards staring out at the waves. A couple of guys not far from them were struggling to erect a flimsy looking tent which crumpled every time the wind blew another gust at it. As the sun peeked out from the clouds, visitors arrived in dribs and drabs, setting up deckchairs and wielding buckets and spades.
Unlike other seaside towns- like Eastbourne, where the beach seems to stretch on forever and ever- Broadstairs Beach really is just the little sandy bay in front of the town. This crescent moon of golden sand is fairly wide and runs between the harbour jetty at one end, and the base of the cliffs at the other.
This is a classic English seaside town, and the beach is lined with a plethora of colourful wooden beach huts, painted in a mishmash of bright colours. Further up is a row of two storey concrete beach-huts-come-locker-rooms with bright blue and yellow doors, unlike any beach huts I’ve ever seen but still weirdly fitting in to the colourful paraphernalia on the beach. A few fairground rides live at one end of the bay, near the very Wes Anderson-esque Viking Bay Lift, and a team of lifeguards keep a watchful eye on the horizon from their hut.
In case you’re wondering- Viking Bay got its name when a Viking ship arrived here. In 1949. Strange but true.
In AD449 a pair of likely lads from Denmark arrived on English shores, and decided to set up shop. After one was killed, the other decided he should probably just go ahead and conquer Kent in its entirety. It’s important in life to dream big, and this guy clearly did- Hengist became the first Jutish king of Kent.
Cut to 1949, and the Danish government decided to commemorate this conquering with a replica of a Viking long ship. They manned it with 53 crew members, who rowed it all the way to Broadstairs Central Bay. A crowd gathered to see the ship arrive, and in true 1940s style, black and white newsreels announced “Kent Welcomes Viking Invaders.”
From that day on, Broadstairs Central Beach has been known as Viking Bay, with tiny Viking ships proudly emblazoned onto a whole load of signage pointing visitors in the beach’s direction.
Get a takeaway from Flotsam & Jetsam
In fact, I would say that of all the suggestions in this blog post, going to the beach and trying something from Flotsam & Jetsam, are the only two vital things to do in Broadstairs. The rest is up to you, pals!
Realising that time was not on our side and that we were unlikely to find somewhere to sit down and eat lunch before we had to leave, we stumbled upon Flotsam & Jetsam at just the right moment. I’ll be honest, I was drawn in by the whimsical lettering on the window and the red, white and blue peg letter menu board.
But once I read what was actually on the peg letter menu there was no doubt in my mind that we needed to try some of what they had to offer.
This beautiful little takeaway shop belongs to Wyatt and Jones, one of the most popular restaurants in Broadstairs. (It’s no surprise that this restaurant is popular- it’s Michelin starred, so they clearly know what they’re doing.) The started as a pop-up, as a takeaway option during the pandemic. But they’re clearly onto a winner here, and it’s been announced that Flotsam & Jetsam is now here as a permanent fixture.
(Hallelujah, because I want to come back and try the entire menu ASAP. Particularly the seaweed ketchup.)
We went for crispy crab dumplings, ray ribs with sticky teriyaki, and battered courgette flower with crab filling. There are no words for this sumptuous feast- you’ll just have to go and try it for yourself to see what I mean.
Walk in Charles Dickens’ footsteps
Charles Dickens is an important character in this part of Kent, and you can tell within five minutes of stepping foot in the town that they’re very proud of their Dickensian connection.
Old Charles came to Broadstairs several times for his jolly holidays, and based some of his characters on people who lived in the town. He wrote David Copperfield in a building now known as Bleak House, perched on a cliff overlooking the beach. You can’t miss it, because of the battlements along the top, making it look rather castle-ish and grand. Although you can see the exterior of the house, it’s a private property these days- so no trespassing, folks.
The Dickens House Museum is in a little cottage near the Charles Dickens Pub on the seafront. This pretty little cottage appears in David Copperfield, as does one of its former residents.
And head to The Old Curiosity Shop Tea Rooms for a cuppa in quaint surroundings. (Although I’m pretty sure this place has absolutely nothing to do with the real Old Curiosity Shop, just saying.) We huddled in here for a bacon roll in the morning and it was all round lovely and full of character- even when (in fact, especially when) the power kept going out. Sometimes, moments like that only add to the experience.
Try your luck at an arcade game
If you’re at a seaside town in England and you happen to spy a games arcade, you should always go in. (I have the same rule for photo booths- although this can be a problem in Berlin, where there are booths around every street corner.)
There’s a tiny arcade in Broadstairs very thoughtfully hidden down a side street so as to not ruin the Dickensian aesthetic of the beach. If you can’t resist the thrill of a 2p slot machine, and get yourself in amongst the retro lights and sounds of this place- but don’t get too sucked in, we all know the winnings will not be big.
Get an ice cream at Morelli’s (or just admire their retro aesthetic)
Morelli’s started life on a bicycle in Scotland in 1907, from where Giuseppe Morelli and his son would sell the ice cream that they made fresh every morning. They opened the very first Morelli’s Ice Cream Parlour in Broadstairs in 1932, and nowadays it’s an absolute institution in the town.
The awesome 1950s flying canopy is crowned with the 3D ‘MORELLI’S’ lettering emblazoned proudly on top, and the interior follows this sleek retro aesthetic. The ice cream is still made freshly every single morning, and Morelli’s success has never dwindled.
In fact, from humble old Broadstairs, Morelli’s has gone global. Aside from its one other UK store in Covent Garden, there are Morelli’s Ice Cream Parlours in Texas, Iraq, Dubai, Gabon and the Philippines.
Get cannoli at Chiappinis
Further down the seafront and a little closer to the beach is Chiappinis, another retro Italian gelateria. This parlour on a corner, with it’s silver lettering and red and white striped awning doesn’t quite match up to Morelli’s grand show on the inside, but what it does do is sell really delicious pastries.
We chose a collection of cannoli and sfogliatelle from behind the glass counter, handed over to us in a stripy paper bag to go. Somehow, with the combination of the fried fish from Morelli’s and the pastries from Chiappini’s, I was feeling all a bit Venetian strolling through the streets of Broadstairs. Which was a real surprise to me on that blustery June day, I’m telling you.
Walk to Botany Bay
Pals. I’m going to be honest with you here, as I always am. We didn’t walk to Botany Bay from Broadstairs, although that was the original plan. The weather wasn’t great, and time was ticking- so by the time the sun put on a small and questionable show, we still wouldn’t have made it over the cliffs. So- we got in the car and drove.
But whether you walk along the Thanet Coastal Path or drive, Botany Bay is 100% worth visiting from Broadstairs. Like Viking Bay, the sand here is golden even on a cloudy day, with a backdrop of white cliffs. At one end of the beach are dramatic chalk stacks to walk through- and past the frothy tide, on the horizon, we could see ships making their way through the English Channel. I’ve sailed through the Channel on a ship many a time and yet I still find it mind-blowing to wonder where those ships on the horizon are going and who’s on them.
Where to stay in Broadstairs
We opted for an Airbnb for our stay in Broadstairs. The little annexe was perfect for the one night we were there, and the hosts were downright lovely. (Also kudos to their son, who could tell you literally any fact about space that you could ever wish to know.) There are plenty more Airbnbs in Broadstairs available, if you’re after a home-from-home experience.
For something very different, Artfuls is a popular B&B in Broadstairs, with uniquely decorated rooms and a licensed bar. Choose from the Victorian, Oriental, Moulin Rouge or Beach rooms; they all look beaut although I think the Victorian is my personal fave.
Two or three days is probably all you’ll need to visit Broadstairs, unless you want to use it as a base for exploring East Kent. The towns of Margate, Ramsgate, Herne Bay and Whitstable are all not too far away.
Broadstairs is a quintessential English seaside town, filled with quirky nooks and crannies as well as the classic seaside requirements. Having spent my childhood living in Kent (I even took part in a Dickens festival once, paraded through the streets of Rochester dressed up as Oliver Twist), I can’t believe I’d never visited this pretty little spot before. I’ve been raving about it ever since. Get down to Broadstairs, on the double!
Nearby towns to explore:
A Day at Dungeness, the UK’s Only Desert
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