We arrived in Boscastle on a baking hot day in June, sweltering in the car as we did laps of the car park at a speed of no faster than 5 miles per hour. That’s the one downside to Cornwall; you kind of need a car to get around, but places to park are limited. News of Cornwall’s beauty has spread far and wide, and the world and his wife want to visit. But pals, I’m doing Boscastle a massive disservice by opening with an entire paragraph about its lack of parking spots. (Also, they definitely should not add more parking. It would ruin the aesthetic completely.)
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Nestled in a rugged valley on the north Cornish coast, Boscastle was once an important harbour town. The harbour wall protects the village from the choppy Atlantic Ocean, although when you first arrive here you’d barely realise its nautical foundations. Most of Boscastle is clustered slightly inland, upstream in the steep-sided Valency Valley. Mossy hillsides and black slate ridges rise on either side of the little river, with centuries-old cottages dotted here and there.
You can easily picture Poldark standing on a craggy hillside overlooking the harbour, coat billowing in the wind; it goes with the territory in this moody part of Cornwall.
The day we visited was summertime perfection. The air was filled with the chatter of children paddling in the river, and the water was twinkling as if it was flowing across a bed of gemstones. All a bit idyllic if you ask me. But when the weather turns, Boscastle is in a precarious position, and in August 2004 TV crews circled in helicopters above, when the valley flooded. Luckily there were no injuries or deaths, (although plenty of people needed rescuing from rooftops or prising off of upper tree branches), but the destruction to the homes and businesses in the village was massive. There hasn’t been a serious flood since then, but it was a stark reminder of how quickly nature can turn on us- even in little old England.
What to do in Boscastle
Walk to the harbour wall
Most of Boscastle is owned and maintained by the lovely folks at the National Trust, although don’t worry pals- this doesn’t mean you need to pay to visit. And the best way to visit Boscastle is to simply have a wander around. Start in the village by the Cobweb Inn and follow the river as it peels away from the road. Whitewashed cottages and old stable buildings sit on either side, and there’s a good chance you’ll pass the Boscastle Busker singing folk songs a cappella into the open air. I always love a busker, and this guy is no exception; the somehow joyously melancholic Maggie May was the perfect tune to be echoing around the Valency Valley on an early summer day.
Eventually the path on one side of the river gives way and slopes gently into the water. You could stop here and paddle straight on in (it was ice cold at the beginning of June, despite its shallow depth), or balance along the narrow concrete path which runs all the way out to the harbour wall. Personally I went for the second option, because that’s just how I roll.
At low tide, a smudge of sand had appeared on the opposite side of the river, where a few fishing boats lined up, off-kilter without the sea to stabilise them. On my side of the river, was a lowish cliff made up of stripes of black lichen-speckled slate, looking not too dissimilar to a rugged old tortoise peering up at the higher hill on the other side of the harbour opening.
On top of this higher hill, is a white blocky building, which I first and foremost thought- ‘must be the castle.’ You know, Bos-Castle? It is not the castle, alas. This is Willapark Lookout, which is now a great spot for keeping an eye on the coast (literally- the National Coastwatch keep an eye on things from right here), but in the 1800s it belonged to a man named Thomas Avery. On paper a trustworthy businessman, in principle more of a dodgy dealer who was rumoured to be into ship-wrecking and dealing in all the smuggled goods. Word on the street was that he also used to hold crazy parties up at Woolapark Lookout filled with drinking, gambling and lovely ladies- as they’re know in Les Miserables. You know what I’m talking about.
It’s not always been picnics and paddling round here, folks. But walking up to WIllapark Lookout is also a great route for a walk around Boscastle.
The harbour wall is wide and solid enough to walk out on, although be prepared for the wind which will almost certainly be whipping its way through the valley from the sea; gets a bit awkward when you’ve not got a hair tie on you. From here, the mouth of the river curves outwards just a little further, and I could just about see the white foam and froth on the tops of the waves as they crashed under cliffs in the distance. It’s a pretty contrast; in front, the wild waves on the beach, gulls dipping and diving on the wind, and behind, families tiptoeing through the gentle babbling stream with barely a breeze to be felt.
The Boscastle Blowhole
Also known as the Devil’s Bellows, the Boscastle Blowhole can be seen about an hour before or after low tide, and is more easily visible during rough sea. The almost horizontal hole in the cliffs is at the mouth of the harbour, giving the impression of an angry dragon lurking in a cave as it sprays great jets of water across the sea.
Visit the Witches
Cornwall (and the whole of England, let’s face it) has a long history of magic and witchcraft. Whether that magic was ever real or not remains to be seen, but the witch-hunts that were common and encouraged centuries ago led to the untimely deaths of thousands of women, who were often simply old, disabled, lonely or, in some cases, just had a pet cat.
Back in the days when ships sailed regularly from here, witches would ‘sell the wind’ to sailors at the harbour. Witches ‘caught’ the wind in knotted ropes, sold these to sailors, and then the wind would be untied from the ropes and unleashed on the ships’ sails. The Museum of Witchcraft and Magic is in a tiny cottage next to the river, and houses thousands of artefacts relating to witchcraft and all things occultish. And whether you believe in magic or not, there’s no denying this is interesting.
At the moment, any visits to the museum have to be pre-booked, with each visit lasting an hour in total. Adult entry is £7, and child tickets cost £5.
Where to eat in Boscastle
For either lunch, or a coffee and cake type situation, Boscastle has plenty of options. We went to the National Trust cafe, and sat in a downright lovely little courtyard outside. Had the Harbour Light Tea Garden been open, I’d have definitely liked to have checked it out- its garden at the front of the little cottage looked bloomin’ marvellous. Alas- it’s 2021, and in 2021 you never know what you’re going to get.
If you’re feeling like it’s a wander-along-with-a-snack-in-hand day, drop into Boscastle Bakery for Cornish pasties, saffron cakes and scones galore. There was a queue out the door as we passed by; they obviously know what they’re doing here.
For restaurants in Boscastle, check out The Rocket Store. This quirky place looks almost shed-like in size, and the plates look pretty miniature too. That’s because the menu here is tapas-style. Order several small dishes (mostly involving a selection of fresh fish; the menu changes daily) and share with your pals. Or keep them all to yourself, it’s up to you.
For a more traditional restaurant in Boscastle, The Riverside Restaurant can’t be faulted, with a delicious meal and views looking over the river. Or, head uphill and away from the main village to the Napoleon Inn for some classic pub grub in a hundreds-of-years-old inn.
Places to stay in Boscastle
If you want more than just a day in Boscastle, consider staying in an actual haunted hotel. Go on, I dare ya! The Wellington Hotel is so very haunted that Yvette Fielding even came to stay during an episode of Most Haunted, although perhaps more impressively, Thomas Hardy and several royals have stayed here over the years too. This hotel started life as a 16th century coaching inn, back in the days of smugglers and highwaymen. Aside from the ghosts it looks like a lovely place to stay, with beautiful rooms and delicious food on the menu. And like many places in Cornwall, The Wellington is dog friendly to boot.
On the hills outside the village- with stunning views of the coastline- look at Trehane Farm B&B. This family-run working dairy farm is consistently highly rated for its friendly hosts and a home-from-home atmosphere.
For AirBnbs in Boscastle, there are plenty of choices. Several of the white waterside cottages are available for rent (although they’re fairly large, so better for groups staying in Boscastle). The Boathouse is much smaller, with room for two. This Boscastle Maisonette is part of a 250 year old cottage slightly set back from the harbour, and looks like a quaint little bolthole to explore the area from. And The Little Post House is a pretty clapboard cottage a couple of minutes up hill from the river, not far from the Napoleon Inn.
At the smaller end of the budget scale, Boscastle has its own hostel, and in possibly one of the most idyllic locations for a hostel that I’ve ever come across. YHA Boscastle is in the old Palace Stables along the river, and is open from March until October.
How to get to Boscastle
Without a car, Boscastle is tricky to get to- but not impossible. With a car, you’ll need to park in the Cobweb Car Park.
Buses run through Boscastle from Bude, Bodmin and Wadebridge. Check times here. Or even better, get the Moovit app, which breaks down all your transport options for you and takes you through the whole journey!
Other places to visit nearby
Boscastle is located on the South West Coast Path, which winds all the way around the coast of Devon and Cornwall, so it’s a popular stopping point for walkers. Sticking to the coastal path, it’s about an hour and twenty minutes walk from Boscastle to Tintagel Castle, or in the opposite direction about two hours to Crackington Haven.
Port Isaac and Padstow are both a short drive away, and inland from Boscastle is St Nectan’s Glen, a stunning waterfall in the middle of a fern-filled forest.
More from Cornwall:
A Day at Rock Beach, aka Kensington by the Sea
Don’t miss out on the next waxings and wanderings!