If the Village Green Preservation Society was an actual thing, they would love Alfriston and its glorious green. Too bad it’s only a song, although I’m pretty sure The Kinks would love Alfriston as well- even though the green here is actually known as The Tye. This quaint spot has been a firm favourite of mine for years and years- it’s one of the best villages to visit, in the heart of the rolling hills of the South Downs National Park, somewhere between Eastbourne and Brighton. For a slice of English country life, look no further than pretty little Alfriston, East Sussex.
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What’s a village green, anyway?
For the sake of the readers from the USA and beyond (of which there are a fair few- I don’t want to leave you guys out), a village green is basically a communal area of grass. Back in the old days, village greens were where livestock was brought whilst farmers trudged through the countryside, and often there was a pond present to give the cows and pigs and sheep a bit of light refreshment.
Driving livestock across the English countryside isn’t the done thing anymore, and nowadays village greens are more of a playing field/picnic area/dog walking spot, normally right in the centre of all the villagey action.
Alfriston Tye is a lovely place to while away a summer afternoon, or to collapse onto after a walk from over the Downs. Bring a picnic or grab a coffee from the Shot Coffee House to sit and watch the world go by.
Alfriston High Street
Pals. Alfriston is not the kind of place to visit on a grand retail therapy kind of a day out. (Also, that’s not really my style, so sorry but you won’t find many of those places on here.)
But it is the perfect place for a meandering kind of a sauntering wander. You know the sort?
For the best bookshop in Sussex, take a look at Much Ado Books. This quirky little corner has a pretty garden, and a brilliant selection of secondhand books and maps, as well as the usual brand spanking new tomes for you to browse. Unfortunately they’re closed on Wednesdays, which somehow always takes me by surprise.
Pop into Hand Spun Botanics for a beaut little selection of plants to fill your house with, as well as some pretty gifts and more books to browse.
And if you’re in the need of some picnic goods, head to Alfriston Village Stores. You can’t miss it, mainly because it looks like the setting of a Miss Marple mystery or a bit of Poirot. Be warned- most of the food in here is on the pricey side, but you can be certain it’s of a decent quality so it’s all swings and roundabouts.
Alfriston tea shops
Because this is an English country village, after all. It goes without saying that a cream tea should be on your list of things to do in Alfriston, and there are several spots to choose from.
My favourite is Badgers Tea House, which always has a delicious selection of homemade cakes, and an extremely pretty walled garden filled with all the flowers in summertime. Everything is served on beautiful bone china and overall, it’s just so quintessentially English, you know!?
If Badgers doesn’t float your boat (or there’s no room at the inn), try The Singing Kettle or Chestnuts Tea Rooms.
Pubs in Alfriston
The foundations of The George Inn date back to 1250- making this half-timbered pub pretty full on old, as pubs go. This family run business was first licensed in 1397, and the atmosphere inside is a true olde worlde vibe, with a roaring fire and beams draped with hops. As well as a brilliant selection of beers and an extensive wine list, this pub has a beaut menu if you’re feeling peckish. Lovely.
Ye Olde Smugglers Inn is further up near the village square (which feels more like a small triangle if I’m honest), and is another historic pub. Smuggling used to be kind of a big thing around these parts- check out Rye for more on that- and there’s still a network of smugglers tunnels which run underground in parts of the village.
Where to stay in Alfriston
The Star at Alfriston has recently been taken over by Alex Polizzi, of Hotel Inspector fame. Even before good old Polizzi entered the building, I loved coming to The Star on a wintery day just to sit in a cozy armchair by the fire and enjoy a beverage or two, and I’m told the hotel is even better these days. Once upon a time, this was a religious hostel for pilgrims on their way from Battle Abbey to Chichester Cathedral. On foot, that’s quite a way. So what a lovely place for weary travellers to rest their medieval heads. The Star is at the pricy end of the Alfriston Hotels scale, with rooms starting from around £220 per night.
Deans Place Hotel is a classic country house hotel with a glorious heated outdoor pool; this is also a popular wedding venue in Alfriston. The atmosphere is relaxed, and dogs are welcome to come and stay as well for an extra £10 per night. What a time to be a dog, I tell you. There are rooms to suit all budgets here, from basic to luxury. Although even the basic rooms look absolutely marvellous.
For more of an outdoorsy experience, look at Alfriston Woodland Cabins. These self-catering cabins are located in private woodland near Alfriston village, and aside from the fact that they look downright lovely (and include firepit and hot tub), being eco-friendly is hugely important to the owners. Which gives them bonus points as far as I’m concerned.
Alfriston Clergy House
Alright guys. I know that visiting historic buildings might not be everybody’s cup of tea. But I love a good old National Trust visit, I do!
I’ve not written about many, but here’s a National Trust property in Devon which was home to some 18th century badass female travellers.
Alfriston Clergy House is the half-beamed, thatch-roofed building on the Tye, right next to the church. Built in the 15th century to house the parish priest, this old home is set in some very pretty gardens, and was the first property the National Trust ever bought. If you happen to be passing, it’s worth a little poke around the crooked rooms and out into the glorious gardens- especially in spring or summer.
Things to do near Alfriston
Alfriston’s location right in the middle of the South Downs National Park means it’s a great base to explore the surrounding area. Drusillas Park is very close by (for the young and young-at-heart), and the Rathfinny Wine Estate is also a stone’s throw away (for the slightly older but not old at heart). Who doesn’t love a good old fashioned wine tasting, for goodness’ sake!?
In my humble opinion, the ultimate best thing to do in Alfriston, is explore the great outdoors. There are plenty of walks near Alfriston, and the South Downs Way itself crosses over the River Cuckmere and into the village. If you fancy a longish walk to the sea, follow the river all the way to the meandering twists of Cuckmere Haven and the famous Seven SIsters. Or follow the South Downs Way back over the river towards the Long Man of Wilmington, across fields and through tiny villages until you reach Eastbourne. It’ll take a couple of hours, but the scenery is beautiful at any time of year, and there are so many footpaths cutting and weaving their way over the hills that it’s really impossible to get lost.
(Although if you’re not the wandering sort and prefer to have more of a plan, check out the AllTrails app for detailed walks wherever you are in the world.)
Is Alfriston the most action-packed place in East Sussex? Absolutely not. But this sleepy English village is the perfect place to while away an afternoon, enjoy the stunning countryside, and fill your lungs with all the fresh air your heart could desire. And for that, I applaud it!
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