Funchal, on the Portuguese island of Madeira, is a port city filled with the scent of flowers and fruit, and people bustling here there and everywhere. Although there are plenty of visitors to Madeira who can spend time slowly exploring the place, there are just as many who arrive on cruise ships, with only a day or two to soak in the atmosphere. Whether you have a month, a week, or only a day, here are the best things to do in Funchal Madeira.
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The island is located in the Atlantic Ocean, not far from the west coast of Africa and slightly north of the Spanish Canary Islands. Its capital, Funchal, (so called after the abundance of wild fennel that was growing there when settlers first arrived), is where my floating home docks whenever we’re sailing on a Canary Islands cruise. I’ve gotten to know the place pretty well over the years, and there are so many things to do in Funchal that it’s almost impossible to know where to begin.
Intrigued to hear more about Portuguese islands? Check out The Azores.
Eat pasteís de nata
Madeira is part of Portugal after all, and what is a more Portuguese treat than a pastel de nata? These flaky pastry tarts filled with custard and topped with a dusting of icing sugar are my favourite of all the Portuguese foods.
Although there are plenty of tourist-filled cafes around, in order to get some true Portuguese atmosphere you need to get off the beaten track a bit. Not too far off; just a block or two back from the main streets will do just fine. It goes without saying that to get a more authentic experience of anywhere in the world, the best way is to not follow the crowd.
Stray from the path, Red Riding Hood style.
My favourite place in Funchal to eat pasteís de nata is a little cafe called Mercearia D. Mécia, which is usually fairly quiet and whose clientele seem to be mainly locals drinking espresso and reading the paper. Walk up a side street and through a gate to find the tiny cafe and its sun-flooded courtyard.
Check out mainland Portugal over here.
Enjoy Funchal’s gardens
Funchal is full to the brim with gardens. Botanical gardens, tropical gardens, big gardens, tiny gardens. You name it, they’ve probably got it. Some of Funchal’s gardens are completely free of charge to roam around, and others, like the Monte Palace gardens, charge an entrance fee.
Madeira’s constant subtropical climate makes it perfect for growing all sorts of fabulous looking flowers, as well as many many extremely tiny bananas (they’re so proud of their tiny bananas, I’ll tell you that for free). Also I really appreciated just sitting still in a park and seeing how many lizards would appear when I blended in to the surroundings like some kind of overgrown non-camouflaged chameleon.
Are there beaches in Funchal?
Firstly I’ll get right to it; Funchal is not the obvious place for white sandy beaches and sunbathing under palm trees. Arriving in Madeira by cruise ship you can clearly see that the coastline around Funchal consists of, for the most part, rocky cliffs rising majestically out of the water and therefore leaving no room for a nice sandy beach at the bottom. There are plenty of amazing beaches outside the city, and across the rest of the island.
However, to make up for this there are plenty of places like the Lido Pool Complex in the city’s hotel district where you can go for a dip instead. Comprising saltwater pools galore, the complex overlooks the sea and is bordered by some beaut gardens (you know how they like their gardens!), with a collection of restaurants and coffee shops nearby as well.
A walk along the promenade is good at all times of day. Due to working hours we often can’t escape the ship till after dark, so although the Lido is closed by then it’s still awesome to have a midnight stroll there and see the sea chopping away at the cliffs below. One night we even saw a shooting star over the sea (or possibly some kind of alien space ship, it could have been either to be honest), proving that Madeira is also a great location for observing the stars. Who knew!?
In the opposite direction, near the cable car, is a small beach. There are better beaches across the rest of the island, but it’s worth knowing this beach is here if you’re in Funchal for the day and are in need of a swim.
Eat steak on a stone
There are several steak on a stone spots in Funchal, but this is my favourite. (And cruise ship crew will know it well.) The owner of Jangada Ra II is a jolly chap who takes great pride in serving up fresh pieces of steak on the scorching hot stones plates in front of you. What an absolute gem. You cook the steak as long as you want to on the sizzling stone, and as a result pretty much everyone is happy.
Obviously not suitable for vegetarians.
Ice cream and people-watching at The Ritz
Ooh la la, now this cafe is one highly lovely place and there is no denying it. Not far from the cathedral on a wide pedestrianised road opposite more of Funchal’s classic gardens, The Ritz is perfect for people watching whilst eating one of their delicious ice creams. They do what they do well, having been open since 1905.
If you’re not feeling an ice cream, try one of the many many cakes they have under their glass counter, afternoon tea style. Or a whole meal if you’re hungry enough.
Get the cable car to Monte
Not one for those with a fear of heights, but one of the best things to do in Funchal is to get the cable car to Monte, which is sat on the mountain overlooking the city. I went with two of my pals from the ship and had a splendiferous time riding up and waving at the people in the cars coming the opposite direction to us to see if they’d return the wave- and I’m happy to say most of them did.
The view the further up you get is spectacular, with tiny red-roofed houses laid out like a 3D map underneath you and the sea stretching into the horizon and merging with the sky.
Drink a poncha or two
The very name ‘Madeira’ will probably conjure up the image of Madeira wine, which is understandable. BUT. The actual number one drink of the island (according to me, at least), is Poncha. Made of distilled sugar cane juice(that’s the alcoholic part, harking back to the days when the island was a big player in the sugar trade), honey, lemon juice, lemon rind and a tad more sugar, it is downright lovely and downright strong. We sat in the gardens of the hotel Quinta do Monte after reaching the end of the cable car line and ordered ponchas all around and it was one of the best moments of all my times in Funchal.
Go for a ride in a basket
What goes up, must come down. It’s the law of gravity, basically. And what better way to return to the bottom of the mountain than in a large basket-woven toboggan, pulled by two Portuguese fellows in straw boaters!??
Am I right!??
The basket-toboggans have been in use since 1850 when people living in Monte needed a speedy way to get to work in Funchal; they come in either two man or three man sizes, and are guided all the way down the incredibly steep and winding hill at breakneck speeds by two men situated one on each side. It’s all very exciting, and sometimes you do start to fear for your life, particularly when a car crosses the junction in front of you. In addition to this, when I say they run you ‘all the way down,’ that’s actually a lie. They run you almost all the way, but too far out of reach of the city centre for the average person to feel like walking back down a sharp gradient in the heat of the day when they don’t know exactly where they’re going or where they even are. And that, is where the taxis come in.
We refused the taxi drivers’ very kind offers to take us back to the city, mainly on principle, and chose to walk approximately forty-five minutes down the hill with trembling legs instead; although actually I’m really glad we did this as it took us through the pretty residential streets and parts of town that we wouldn’t have been able to se otherwise.
For the thrill seekers: hire a motorbike in Funchal
As a self-confessed scaredy-cat, I surprised myself by agreeing to join my boyfriend on a motorbike which we hired from Madeira Island Motorcycle Hire. The office is located within walking distance of the port, and if you only have a day to explore, hiring a motorbike is a great way to see more of the island than just the city.
The winding roads of Madeira are well-maintained and so scenic that you won’t know where to look first. We headed straight up into the mountains and stopped at Pico dos Barcelos, which at 335m above sea level is known as one of Madeira’s best view points. The only problem on that particular day though, was that the viewpoint is so very high up that it was completely immersed in clouds. We couldn’t see a thing.
Walk down the Rua de Santa Maria
Near the seafront and just around the corner from the fruit market, is the Rua de Santa Maria, a cobblestone alleyway filled with colourful painted doors. This was once just an average slightly run-down little street, but in an effort to bring new life to the area, the Painted Doors Project was launched.
There are now over 200 beautifully painted doors lining the Rua de Santa Maria, and it’s an awesome example of how art can breathe life into a place.
Go to the fruit market and try not to get ripped off
The Mercado dos Lavradores (ie, the Farmer’s Market), is a great place to wander and while away the time. It goes without saying that the smell of fresh fruit in the air is really, really delicious, and the market is also a great place to see the variety of weird and wonderful looking fruits which are grown right here on Madeira.
A word of warning though, pals! The fruits may be locally grown, and you’d think this would make them fairly cheap. But the market is also something of a tourist trap. Be prepared to fork out more than you might expect for a few fruits. We somehow ended up handing over €20 for four passion fruits, with big smiles on our faces and sorrow in our poor little touristic hearts.
What to do?
Eat a Madeira Sandwich
You wont need to look far to find a Prego Especial. This mouthwatering sandwich is on the menu at most Madeira snack bars and restaurants; although it’s very much for the meat-eaters.
The sandwich consists of Bolo do Caco bread- ‘bolo’ is the bread, and ‘caco’ is the scorching hot plate it’s grilled on. The bread is spread with garlic butter, and between the top and bottom are slices of steak, with salad and often a slice of cheese as well.
Thank me later.
So Funchal really does have something for everyone…
Whether you’re a thrill-seeker, a nature lover, an urban explorer or a foodie, the city of Funchal basically has something for everyone; it’s also a great starting point for exploring the rest of the stunning island of Madeira. Have you explored the city yourself? Do you have a recommendation for next time I visit?
Let me know below…
LOGISTICAL STATISTICALS
- Funchal is a full on lovely starting point, but the rest of the island is just downright ruddy beautiful aswell, filled with waterfalls and volcanoes galore and giving off a rather Jurassic Park kind of a vibe. Perfect for road trips if you’re feeling it.
- The weather in Madeira is pretty much permanently stuck on ‘Summertime’ which basically means Good Times All Around. Obviously. From October through winter the temperature can drop to 16-17 degrees Celsius but that’s no biggie to a hardened Brit, know what I’m saying!?
- The island is also considered one of the safest places in the world, and is virtually crime free. More good times.
- The main language spoken is Portuguese however within Funchal English is widely-spoken as well so panic not if you’re not a fluent Portuguese-speaker.
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Great post! It reminded me of my time in Funchal! Loved the doors along Rua de Santa Maria and I would love to return to do the toboggan experience!
20 pounds for four passion fruits? That is insane. I am sure there must be a way to escape the scam.
20 pounds for four passion fruits? That is insane. I am sure there is a way one can escape this tourist scam.