Sankt Pauli is a neighbourhood I hold dearly in my little lost heart. Which might be a surprise to regular readers; I’m an off the beaten path kind of a gal, often to be found hiking in the wilderness or bumbling through obscure villages with only a handful of residents. Gritty inner-city red light districts are just not my normal favoured destination.
And Sankt Pauli really is gritty.
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This colourful neighbourhood in Germany’s second city of Hamburg, is where I have spent months at a time, living, working and playing, and I’ve somehow grown rather fond of it. There is grime, there is broken glass aplenty, and homelessness, street drinking and drug-taking is a big issue. I even discovered a syringe on my first morning of rehearsals a few years ago. Street art is splashed across every available brick wall, and people spill out of coffee shops by day and bars by night. It’s nothing if not lively.
But amongst all the madness of stag parties and strip clubs and, occasionally, schlager festivals, Sankt Pauli continues to be a living breathing neighbourhood where people live and children play and skip round to school. And that is why I have so much appreciation for it; Sankt Pauli has real life flowing through its streets.
It’s a neighbourhood that tourists visit, but it is not a tourist neighbourhood. If you get my drift.
From a lass who has got to know the area pretty well over the last few years, here is my personal guide to Sankt Pauli, Hamburg.
A very quick history of Sankt Pauli
Hamburg is a port city which is hugely proud of its nautical heritage; you’ll spy anchors and life buoys and sailor murals all over the place. (There’s even a man who wanders around St Pauli looking exactly like Captain Birds Eye; keep your eyes peeled for that one.)
Back in the day when sailors docked in Hamburg, they headed to the Sankt Pauli district to have a good time. Partly because of its proximity to Landungsbrücken- which is part of Hamburg’s port on the Elbe River- and partly because there were plenty of bars and brothels just waiting to be explored. These days there are theatres and clubs to be found here as well, but there’s really no escaping the area’s reputation as one of Europe’s most famous red light districts.
It’s better to just go with it.
A much quainter German port: The seaside resort of Warnemünde
How to get from Hamburg Airport to Sankt Pauli
To get a taxi from Hamburg airport to Sankt Pauli will cost around €40; better to pay in cash. However, the city is extremely well-connected, and it’s very easy to get public transport instead.
Follow the signs to the S-Bahn, and buy a ticket from one of the red machines. You can pay by cash or card- either €3.50 for a one way ticket, or €6.90 for a day pass. There are no ticket barriers, but there are random ticket checks every now and again so bear that in mind. Hop on the S1 (they only go in the direction of the city from here, approximately every 15 minutes), and hop off at the Reeperbahn about forty minutes later.
Public transport runs like clockwork in Hamburg, although if you want to check routes, timetables, or even buy tickets, I’d suggest downloading the HVV app before you arrive in the city.
Where to stay in St Pauli
If you want to stay in the centre of Hamburg’s nightlife district, there are a few great hotel options to suit all kinds of budgets.
For a luxurious hotel in St Pauli, check out the four star east Hotel. This red brick building is only a few minutes walk from St Pauli station, but is set slightly back from the Reeperbahn- away from the noise of the night. The whole hotel is sleekly designed, with nods to the orient, and the rooftop spa is open for guests to use. (Germany really does know how to do a spa, I’ll give them that.)
Hotel Hafen overlooks the St Pauli piers, and spans two buildings- the older one of which was once a lodging house for sailors. Oo argh! The whole hotel is filled with nautical antiques, taking the maritime theme very seriously without being disneyfied. Don’t miss out on the Tower Bar, which is a great place for an evening drink with a view.
I’m going for character here pals, so although there are some generic chain hotels available, if you’re on a tight budget in St Pauli I’d recommend Pyjama Park over somewhere like the Ibis Hotel. Having stayed at both, the Pyjama Park has way more character, with individually designed rooms and a brilliant breakfast included each morning. Although it’s technically a hostel, there are plenty of private rooms available all with private bedrooms. The one potentially deal-breaker, is that there’s no elevator- probs not the best place to stay if you’ve got a heavy suitcase with you.
St Pauli’s most famous street: The Reeperbahn
It’s grimy. It can be kind of smelly. And it’s not my favourite part of Sankt Pauli. But it is perhaps the most famous part, so I’d be doing you a disservice if I didn’t mention it.
I’ll be completely honest with you here, pals; when I first arrived in Hamburg for work, I had to stay on the Reeperbahn, and I was so in shock that I genuinely almost left. (For several reasons. Head to my post specifically about the Reeperbahn for a more detailed explanation.) The bottom line is- this area is not for the faint-hearted, but it can be pretty full on fun in the evenings.
The wide road is lined with strip clubs, questionable-looking bars (although I do love an evening in Herz Hamburg, especially when Jojo’s playing) and fast food chains. At one end of the street are the Dancing Towers, which are home to a beautiful rooftop bar called Clouds. I highly recommend this place, for the views and the vibes.
And its second most famous street: Herbertstraße
Did you know that there’s a street in Hamburg where women and children are forbidden from walking?
Herbertstraße is more of a narrow alleyway than a street, and it’s the only part of St Pauli where prostitutes sit in windows advertising themselves- not that I’ve personally ever seen it; I’m a woman, remember? There’s been prostitution here since at least the early 19th century, but when the Nazis came into power and banned prostitution, they found it quite a tricky rule to enforce. (Also lets face it, there were probably a fair few Nazi regulars to the area.) They decided to erect barriers at either end of Herbertstraße to hide what was going on in the little alleyway. By the 70s, signs were placed on the barriers warning women and children against entering. So don’t even try passing through the metal barriers unless you’re a man, because the women working inside won’t hold back from chasing out of there.
Coffee culture in St Pauli
Hamburg is full of cute coffee shops, and in St Pauli you’d be hard-pushed to locate a Starbucks or a Balzac Coffee. They just don’t like those kinds of places round here, ok? And to find St Pauli’s best coffee shops, you’ll need to head off the Reeperbahn and into the bohemian side streets.
Playground Coffee used to be my local and is filled with clean decor and bright green plants; they really know their coffee. Kraweel has delicious coffee as well as food for a little bit of lunch; you can’t miss it because of the hodgepodge collection of rickety chairs and old comfy sofas outside, which are almost always full of customers. Sitting in this little place is like being in grandma’s living room.
The list of independent coffee shops in Hamburg is seemingly endless and ever-changing. Find my favourite Hamburg coffee shops here.
Where to eat in St Pauli
For foodies, St Pauli really does have something for everyone. Just get off of the Reeperbahn, unless you’re looking for fast food on the way back from a night out. My favourite restaurant is Mexiko Straße, which is on a little corner one block back from the Reeperbahn. And that is next to another personal fave- Maharaja, an incredible Indian restaurant serving delectable curries and other Indian dishes. (You can’t miss it; the restaurant is draped in flowers and the smell of spices lingers on the street.)
For my full list of eateries in the area, head to my post on Sankt Pauli restaurants.
The Dom
The Hamburg Dom is a gigantic funfair held three times a year: spring, summer and winter. Who doesn’t love a funfair, for goodness’ sake!?
If you happen to visit during Dom time, head on down for all the old school rides, flashing lights and German carnival food you could ever wish for. Candied nuts, currywurst, flammkuchen and candyfloss. The list goes on, but you get my drift.
Entry to the Dom is completely free of charge, but bring cash to ride the rides and eat all the food. When the Dom isn’t running, it’s often left as a completely empty and rather massive concrete lot, although at various times throughout the year the circus or some other event comes to town.
A little band called The Beatles
Word has it that without St Pauli, The Beatles would simply not be what they became. Between 1960 and 1962 the little band from Liverpool (which originally had five members), played in clubs all over the Reeperbahn and the rest of St Pauli. The Indra Club– which was the first venue on The Beatles roster- is still going, and music fans continue to flock here.
At one end of Große Freiheit is a (pretty underwhelming) memorial to The Beatles. So underwhelming that I walked past it several times without realising; but still, it’s worth knowing it’s there, on Beatles-Platz.
Große Freiheit
Whilst the silhouetted outlines of The Beatles blend into the scenery, you can’t miss the entrance to Große Freiheit from the Reeperbahn. The mostly pedestrianised street is aglow with neon signs leading the way to strip clubs, burlesque bars and karaoke joints. (That’s Thai Oase, FYI.)
Germany loves a drag act, and Germany’s must famous drag queen has a bar on Große Freiheit. And if you fancy something completely different, book a drag tour of Sankt Pauli with one of the Olivia Jones gang.
Street Art Spotting
I love a bit of street art, I do, and in St Pauli the street art game is strong. Every surface is plastered with bright colours and big pictures, making the whole neighbourhood an urban jungle of illustrations to explore. It’s kind of like walking through a massive pop-up storybook.
The nautical theme runs consistently here, and you’ll find plenty of salty old seadogs, ships in bottles, and mermaids winding their way around the street corners and emblazoned across apartments, mixed in with all kinds of creatures and words.
Spielbudenplatz, home of the St Pauli Nachtmarkt
During summer, one end of the Reeperbahn fills up with food trucks, bars, and benches in between, and the Nachtmarkt- or night market- becomes the centre of Sankt Pauli. I absolutely love this place. The atmosphere always seems to be friendly, and it’s one of the best places to while away a warm summers evening with pals.
When summer’s over, the Spielbudenplatz does not sleep for long. Oh no, sir. The wide open plaza is often used as a concert venue; and then, there’s Christmas. If there’s one thing Germany does particularly well, it’s Christmas markets, and the Sankt Pauli Christmas market is unique.
Partly because at the excellently named Santa Pauli, there is an actual strip tent.
Planten un Blomen
If you’re in need of a bit of greenery and semi-fresh air in the midst of all the urban madness and suspicious smells, the best place to go is Planten un Blomen, a big landscaped park bordering one corner of St Pauli. The entrance is right next to The Dom and the St Pauli U-Bahn station, and on a sunny day it can be absolutely glorious.
During summertime there’s a beautiful water fountain and light show every single evening (for free), and in winter an ice rink is installed in the centre of the park.
The Sankt Pauli Bunker
This is not an attractive building, by any means. The Sankt Pauli Bunker is a mammoth concrete edifice which, once you’ve seen it, you can’t un-see. The bunker was built during World War II in response to the increasing threat of allied attacks on Nazi Germany. Hamburg was an obvious target, and although the city did suffer massive losses, 25,000 civilians were able to shelter here during Operation Gomorrah.
The bunker is so very sturdy that it’s highly unlikely it could ever be demolished, and so the people of Hamburg have had to find another solution for this quite hideous piece of architecture. (Sorry but it’s true.) The soundproof walls make it a perfect nightclub and music venue, and it’s also home to a mammoth music shop on the ground floor. Fingers crossed, the future looks even brighter for the bunker- with some very ambitious plans to create a park on the roof.
The St Pauli piers
Technically, Sankt Pauli stretches all the way down to the banks of the River Elbe at Landungsbrücken, which is almost always packed full of tourists admiring the boats and nibbling away at their Fischbrötchen. (That’s a Hamburg speciality; fish sandwiches, often with onions and pickles involved). Like most port cities, there’s an industrial edge to Hamburg, and from St Pauli you can see the shipping containers and dry dock across the river. But at sunset, the metal cranes and scaffolds are softened; against an orange sky, the view is beautiful.
If you’re doing the tourist thing, get a boat tour from Landungsbrücken, or if you just need to get from A to B, this is also where ferries go to other parts of the city. To pretend you’re on a tropical island far far away, get yourself down to Strand Pauli for some drinks and good times. There’s an actual fake sandy beach at this waterfront bar, and it’s a brilliant spot whether in the evening or the middle of the day.
The red light district bit
Once upon a time, my five minute walk to work in St Pauli would take me directly past a big brothel which specialised in trans women. Every now and again women would appear at the windows, and potential clients- always, honestly, kind of seedy looking men- would stand in front of the building on a scrubby patch of grass and wait to be invited up. I found the gathering of the men and the blatant staring upwards creepy.
But. What I think about it isn’t the point here.
Prostitution in Hamburg is completely legal. Sex workers have social security numbers and health insurance, and some brothels even have loyalty cards. Starbucks style. It’s a whole new world out here.
There are many, many, beautiful neighbourhoods in Hamburg, but somehow nothing sums up the city’s identity better for me than St Pauli. This multicultural, colourful and never-ever-silent corner has a strong sense of self, not just with how it looks but how it feels. The attitude in Sankt Pauli is actively anti-racist, anti-establishment, and anti-gentrification. The Rote Flora theatre in Sternschanze has been home to squatters since 1977 when a refurbishment was threatened; and the building has been occupied with squatters ever since, who have set up a community centre within its walls. Then there’s St Pauli FC, reportedly one of the least-successful but uniquely punk teams in Germany. Anti-fascist, anti-homophobic, anti-hooliganism, this football team has a cult following and sums up the overwhelming ideals of the people of St Pauli.
The people of Hamburg are proud of this crazy little corner of the world, and I’m weirdly a bit proud of Sankt Pauli too, even though it’s just a place I worked for a while. I’ve never been anywhere quite like it, and it has it’s own little micro-culture, worlds away from its big sister Berlin. St Pauli might not be the most beautiful destination in Germany, but I love it anyway.