Dazzling sunshine reflects off of whitewashed houses, donkeys clatter up and down winding alleyways, and the seemingly infinite indigo sea twinkles far below. Santorini’s capital city may be teeny-weeny (and often completely tourist-swamped, as well as sun-drenched), but it’s so very worth exploring, especially in springtime or early autumn. Here are the very best things to do in Fira.
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Santorini is the epitome of a Greek island; the aesthetic is Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants meets Mamma Mia (although Mamma Mia was actually filmed on the island of Skopelos, and Mamma Mia 2 was on the Croatian island of Vis, FYI.) What I’m getting at here is that when most people think of Greece, they think of Santorini, or somewhere that looks very much like it. And Fira is right at the very centre of the island’s activity.
At the height of summer the town is heaving with visitors, due in part to the numerous cruise ships which rock up every single day, depositing boat-loads of passengers to the bottom of the cliffs to explore for a day.
In my opinion, there are far too many ships arriving here; and in any case, the best way to visit Santorini is to stay for a few days, not a few hours. But that is by the by, pals. Whether you’re docking here on a cruise, or staying on the island, you absolutely should not leave Fira off of your list of places to visit in Santorini.
The very best thing to do in Fira: get lost
This very blog is called Alex Getting Lost, after all. What kind of gal would I be if I wasn’t recommending a good wander in this absolute stunner of a town? Fira is incredibly easy to get around on foot; in fact it’s really the only way to get around. The town is built along the edge of a caldera- that’s the collapsed centre of a volcano, which has been filled in by the ocean, and the majority of the buildings stand on the steep sides of the caldera’s cliffs, connected with narrow alleyways.
The wider streets are often packed with visitors- the square outside the cathedral can get chockablock to the rafters- but stray from the busier pathways to discover quiet shaded pathways where only a few cats lollop around and the odd hotel porter rambles along with barrows of suitcases. Blue church domes stand majestically amidst the sea of white, and as long as you cover up, it’s possible to peek inside some of Fira’s many churches.
It’s all-round gorgeous.
Whilst your wandering Fira; don’t forget to check out Firostefani
Firostefani- that’s the crown of Fira- is really just the highest point of Fira town, although some people would class it as a different location altogether. It’s about a ten minute walk from the centre of Fira, and is often a little bit quieter just because its away from the main hub of the town.
Watch the sunset
There are so many stunning spots in Santorini to watch the sunset from; in fact I wrote a whole guide to catching sundown on the island, here. But pretty much anywhere with a good view of the caldera will provide you with a glorious spectacle as night begins to fall.
However, as Fira is one of Santorini’s busiest locations, it can be tricky to battle with the crowds for a good view. Of course you could go all out and book some incredible hotel or a table at an exclusive restaurant. However both of those options can be incredibly pricey.
If you don’t fancy forking out a lot of money, the key to watching the sunset in Fira is to stay away from those main thoroughfares that I mentioned earlier. Head downhill to one of the quieter backstreets; I’ve sat and watched the sunset countless times in Fira, with barely another soul around me. Which is a shocker considering the extreme density of the crowds higher up the cliffs, let me tell you.
Eat and drink!
You can’t go to Greece without eating the local food. It’s just to bloomin’ good not to. And although eating and drinking in Fira may be expensive (especially compared to more off-the-beaten-path destinations in Greece like the Peloponnese or Lefkada), getting at least a coffee or cocktail in Fira with a view of the caldera is a must-do. There are so many bars, restaurants and coffee shops to choose from in Fira; just find a quiet one and take a seat.
Irini’s Cafe is in a great location in Firostefani, and they serve delicious traditional food as well as drinks, with a stunning view to match. For something with a slightly cooler vibe, check out Volkan on the Rocks. Volkan serves incredible food and light bites as well as local beers and wines from its beautiful cliffside spot; and if you get tired of the views (not sure whether that’s possible, but you never know), they also host an outdoor cinema in the evenings throughout the summer season.
Say hi to the donkeys
But for the love of god, don’t ride them.
Back in the day, in fact as recently as the 1970s, donkeys and mules were the main method of transport in Santorini. They transported people, they transported food and building materials, and without them a lot of the villages here just wouldn’t have been built or lived in.
Nowadays the donkeys and mules are really here just as a tourist attraction, and for tourists arriving in Fira by cruise ship, a row of long-lashed donkeys in colourful cloths and saddles is one of the first sights they’ll see. There are 587 steps from the Old Port to the main town, and donkey drivers offer rides up to the top for a charge. At the top of the hill, more rows of animals await passengers in often sweltering heat.
Personally, I would never ride one of these Santorini donkeys, and it never fails to baffle me when people do. (Look at this PETA investigation if you’re curious as to why.) But having been to Fira numerous times over the last six or seven years, I always drop by to say hello and sometimes offer an apple or two.
Use Fira’s cable car
If you too are not fancying forcing an animal to carry you up or down over 500 steps, then first of all: good one! Bravo, you.
Secondly, there is an alternative method of transport. Aside from the more traditional mode of: on foot. A cable car runs up and down the 220 metre cliffside every 20 minutes, for a mere €6 each way.
And for cruise ship crew members: flash your crew ID, because for you guys it is completely 100% free of charge, you jammy lot!
Even if you’re not a passenger (or crew member, like me) on a cruise ship, it’s still worth taking a ride on the cable car just for the sheer fun of it. Although the best time to make the trip is probably early evening, or whenever you can see that there are minimal cruise ships in port. There’s a handful of restaurants and gift shops at the bottom of the cliffs, and the views as you travel downhill (or up) are downright lovely.
Take a hike
Most visitors to Santorini go for the sunshine and, often, a taste of the luxury lifestyle. It’s not unusual to see influencers trotting up and down the streets and steps of Fira and its picturesque neighbour, Oía, with bags full of designer outfit changes and personal photographers just to snap the perfect shot and move on. Flying dress photoshoots are all the rage. But there is so much more to the island than just as a backdrop for your instagram photoshoots.
And that is where the hiking comes in; the island is covered in hiking trails, and Fira is the perfect starting place for several Santorini hikes, including the most popular walk all the way from Fira to Oía. Oía is a stunning village– perhaps even more dazzling than Fira- and is also home to a beautiful harbour and the best cliff-jumping spot in Santorini. If you don’t feel like completing the full two-and-a-bit-hours hike, you could just go as far as Skaros Rock, which is a rocky outcrop which holds the ruins of an old castle and a hidden church. Find my guide to the Fira to Skaros Rock hike here.
The best day trips from Fira- on your own
Using public transport in Santorini is super easy, and Fira is the starting point for every single bus route on the island; which makes it ideal for exploring further afield. If you don’t want to hike to Oía (completely understand, especially on a hot summer day), the bus from Fira to Oía takes about 20 minutes. Here’s how I spent a day visiting Oía in Autumn.
The village of Pyrgos is perched up high on a hill in the middle of the island, and is way quieter than busy old Fira. It’s also downright beautiful. I stayed there for a few days, but it’s very easy to visit as a day trip from the town.
Are there any beaches in Fira? No way, José. But you can get a bus to the Red Sand Beach at Akrotiri, or the resort towns of Kamari or Perissa to get more of a traditional sun, sea, and sand experience. These are also home to some of Santorini’s most important archaeological spots; at Akrotiri are the brilliantly-preserved ruins of a Minoan settlement, and on the Mesa Vouno mountain which separates Perissa and Kamari are the remains of Ancient Thera, a city which thrived thousands of years ago.
When using the buses in Santorini, you board the bus, sit down, and wait for the conductor to come and collect your money. You can only pay in cash, and exact change is definitely preferred. Check bus timetables here.
The best day trips from Fira- guided
If you’re more of a curated trip kind of a person, I’ve got you. Or maybe you’ve been to Fira before and want to see the rest of the island with limited time?
This Private 6-hour Santorini Sights tour is a great option, particularly if you’re visiting by cruise ship. The tour takes you to Firestofani, Oía, the ruins of Akrotiri, the beautiful village of Pyrgos, and two beaches; as well as including an optional stop at Santo Wines. It’s a jam-packed itinerary which takes in all the main stops on the island.
Or head off on this Santorini Highlights tour, which has a few quieter stops like the Akrotiri Lighthouse and Vlychada Beach, as well as the big guns of Oía. The tour can also be tailored to your interests.
Learn something new
If you feel like getting your learning cap on (and maybe getting out of the baking hot sun for a minute, too), there are several museums in Fira to drop in to. The Museum of Prehistoric Thera houses a whole load of objects excavated from Ancient Thera and Akrotiri, and is housed in a rather splendiferous building near the main bus station. The Megaro Gyzi Cultural Centre showcases more recent times on Santorini, with photos from before and after the volcanic eruption in the 1950s, as well as hosting art exhibitions and theatre performances.
Is it better to stay in Fira or Oía?
Making the choice between staying in Fira or Oía depends on what you want to do with your time in Santorini. If you want a more relaxed, and luxury-feeling experience, stay in Oía. It’ll be slightly more expensive than Fira, but worth it if luxury is the vibe you’re after.
If you want to explore the island, Fira is the best base to do this from, whilst also having a much busier atmosphere. (Though that’s not to say that Oía is ever particularly quiet.)
On a tight budget but still want to visit Santorini? I’ve stayed several times at Caveland Santorini, which is a boutique hostel housed in some old wine caves in the nearby village of Karterados. This place is stunning, has plenty of private rooms, and is within walking distance of Fira.
Read about my experience of Caveland.
Whenever you’re visiting Fira, there’s no denying its captivating beauty and unique position perched above the caldera. During summer, explore the town early in the morning to avoid the crowds. Otherwise, visit out of season to have a more peaceful time exploring this Greek gem.