With only one day in Helsinki and no real plan of action, I decided to head out from the cruise port on foot, towards the city centre and back out again in a swooping spirograph circle. What I discovered was the most tranquil capital city I’ve ever come across: with gulls hovering over the water, art nouveau buildings in muted pastel tones, and an eternity of rocky islands on the horizon.
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I couldn’t quite believe it, if I’m honest. Warmer shores suit me way better than the Scandinavian ones, so I hadn’t been overly fussed about arriving in Helsinki. But the sun was dazzling as I walked away from the port, along the waterfront.
Helsinki, it turns out, is a breath of fresh air. (Really fresh, clean air.)
This is a peaceful city filled with parks and outdoor spaces. Rushes and reeds line the waterfront, and boats bob gently next to the wooden jetties. The streets are quiet, barely disturbed by the classic green trams that whisk smoothly along them.
And Helsinki’s collection of art nouveau architecture gives Barcelona a run for its money. The art nouveau movement was popular from the late 1800s to the early 1900s, and although Barcelona holds the crown for its fantastical buildings, (the style is known as Modernisme in Spain), Finland developed its own distinct version. Less flashy and fantastical, Finnish art nouveau is understated but equally as fairytale-esque.
It makes complete sense to me that The Moomins came from Finland. Tove Jansson, who created the hugely popular children’s books, was born in Helsinki, and it’s easy to see how she might have been influenced artistically by her surroundings. The whimsical turrets and cornices that decorate the pastel-coloured buildings, the perfect blend of peaceful nature with quiet streets… and then of course there was the solitary woman watching the water with a live crow balanced on her bicycle’s handlebars. That could have been a scene lifted straight from a page.
Helsinki couldn’t be more Moomin-like if it tried.
I always prefer soaking in a city slowly, which makes things a bit tricky when you work on a cruise ship that spends no more than a few hours in each destination. So with only one day in Helsinki, I didn’t want to spend my time rushing from tourist site to tourist site. I opted for the slow and steady style instead, and I’m glad I did.
One day in Helsinki: the route I took
- From the cruise port, follow part of the Inner City Waterfront Trail past Havshalmen marina. There are several cafes and restaurants along the way.
- Veer left through Kaivopuisto park, and climb up to the Ursa observatory. Take in the 10/10 views towards the islands in the bay and across Helsinki.
- Continue along the Inner City Waterfront Trail past the ferry port, until you reach the South Harbour, which is the touristic heart of the city.
- Head up towards the huge dome of Helsinki Cathedral. (This is one stunner of a building.)
- Start heading back towards the port through the Design District.
- Wander through Johannesparken.
- Keep heading back towards the port, keeping your eyes peeled for the art nouveau architecture all around.
One day in Helsinki: the photos I took
l get a lot of questions about this, so in case you’re interested, too- all of these photos were taken with my good old OM-5 Camera, and the M.Zuiko 12-45mm F4.0 Pro Lens.








































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