Palermo is grand, gloriously gritty, and a little bit rough around the edges. Its streets are a mixture of wide open boulevards lined with domed churches, palaces and apartment buildings, and narrow, crowded markets filled with noise, octopus tentacles and piles and piles of lemons. In fact you’ll swing back and forth between calm and complete sensory overload within mere minutes. My complete guide to Palermo cruise port contains all you need to know about docking in this Sicilian diamond in the rough.
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The first day that I docked in Palermo cruise port, the sky was filled with ash. Little tiny flecks of black filled the sky, barely visible until I noticed it settling on my skin like charcoal freckles, and when I got back on to the ship a few hours later, I looked as if I’d been rolling in a dirt bath. That summer was ragingly hot, and forest fires had burnt through southern Europe, leaving charred remains almost everywhere we docked. From Corfu to Málaga and even down in Tenerife, the land was absolutely ravaged, and the fires in Sicily had only just sizzled away. So a word of warning, pals: beware the European summer! It’s really heating up around here.
And Palermo on a Sunday in August? It’s very quiet. Italians tend to escape the cities during ferragosto, meaning that for the entire month of August, urban areas like Palermo seem to shut down almost entirely. On a Sunday- that’s doubley closed, folks. So, choose your itineraries wisely.
Where is Palermo cruise port?
Palermo cruise port is right in the centre of Palermo, next to the ferry pier. Here’s the exact location on Google Maps.
With space for up to three ships at any given time, all passengers return to the ship via security inside the terminal building. This means that the queue to get back on board can sometimes be quite lengthy, so allow a bit of extra time to get through security without cutting it too close to Back on Board. The plus is that there’s air conditioning, and wifi inside the terminal.
A Hop-On, Hop-Off bus stops just outside the port gate, so if you don’t fancy a lot of walking but do want to see the city, this is a great way to do it. And there’s a taxi pick-up right outside as well, but if you’re just planning on sticking to the city, a taxi shouldn’t be necessary.
Can you walk from Palermo cruise port to the city?
You absolutely can walk from Palermo cruise port to the city, folks! In fact it’ll only take around 10-15 minutes to reach the centre of all the action. You’ll also find a couple of coffee shops and bars on the immediate opposite side of the main road to the cruise port.
I say this from experience, pals! Palermo cruise port isn’t particularly well sign-posted, and as the entrance is just off of a main road, it’s also not particularly easy to spot and can be easy to confuse with the entrance for ferry passengers. If you’re heading out on foot, make sure you make a note of the location so you’re sure of where you’re heading back to.
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The story of Palermo
I had naively presumed that Sicily, as an island, would be mostly home to quaint teeny-tiny villages and countryside. The island does have its fair share of these, but it also has several fairly large-scale cities, and Palermo is one of them.
Siracusa is home to the baroque Isola Ortigia, Messina has been rebuilt from the ground up after its World War II catastrophe, and Palermo is possibly the most historically layered of them all. Although it began life as a Phoenician settlement, it was eventually taken over by the Arabs who ruled for almost 250 years. After a lengthy siege in the Middle Ages, the Normans took control, and there’s still plenty of architecture in the city that contains a complete blend of Muslim and Norman influence. It’s rather beaut, actually.
In modern times, though, Palermo is probably more famous for being the historical heartland of the Sicilian mafia. (How very awkward.) In fact, the Sicilian mafia actually goes by the name Cosa Nostra, and it’s thought to have begun some time in the early 18th century. Aside from being incredibly violent, the mafia make a lot of their money from exceedingly corrupt business ventures. (Check out Naples and its trash problem, for starters.)
So the Cosa Nostra had their fingers in all the pies, as they say. The level of corruption within local government became increasingly higher as they sought control over, well, as much as they could get their hands on, and this came to a head during the ‘Sack of Palermo.’
After the Second World War, people began to flock to Palermo for work, causing a ginormous need for housing. The Cosa Nostra knew that they could profit massively from this, so using their links to local government they forced the signing off of building permits for some seriously unattractive, low-cost, low-quality housing. Historic architecture was demolished overnight and gardens and parks were paved over, without a single thought for the need for schools, decent roads and other normal city things. Alas.
It’s not quite Tokyo, but there’s no denying that Palermo is one incredibly built-up city.
The best things to do from Palermo cruise port
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: I was so surprised by the urban sprawl of Palermo, which is quite silly when you consider that it’s officially the capital city of Sicily. It goes without saying, then, that there’s no shortage of things to see and do while you’re docked in Palermo cruise port.
Visit Palermo Cathedral (and head on to the roof)
Once upon a time, Sicily was an Emirate, governed under Muslim rule by Arab rulers. And Palermo was home to a grand mosque- which had been built on the site of an old church. Then the Normans came along, and transformed the mosque into the grand old cathedral that has stood ever since in the historic centre of Palermo. (The to-ing and fro-ing from cathedral to mosque is a tale as old as time in the Mediterranean- check out Palma Cathedral’s similar story.)
The cathedral is an absolute marvel, and everyone who has ever controlled the city has left their mark on it. Keep your eyes peeled from the Arabic inscription from the Qu’ran, on a pillar right next to the front door.
Part of the inside of the cathedral is free to visit, but the really interesting bit is the roof. For less than €20, you can head up on to the rooftop of Palermo cathedral, in the style of the Italian Hunchback of Notre Dame Palermo, which I think is pretty amazing, and worth every penny.
Remember that to enter a church or cathedral in Italy you’ll need to cover your shoulders, and teeny-tiny shorts are a no go.
Eat street food
Palermo is renowned as a destination for street food connoisseurs, and if you’re arriving into Palermo cruise port I implore you, pals: get off the ship and eat to your heart’s content!
Arancini is the number one street food of choice. Crispy, deep-fried balls of rice, often filled with mouthwatering ragu, these are downright delicious.
Then of course there’s pani ca meusa. This Palermo staple is a sandwich which was invented by Jewish butchers during the Middle Ages, and consists of boiled and fried veal spleen, doused with fresh lemon juice and served inside a bread roll.
Sfincione is a thick slab of bread topped with tomato sauce and other toppings like onions, anchovies and cheese; it’s not pizza, but it’s similar in concept.
And then of course, for those with a sweet tooth, there’s cannoli. I’ve tested a fair few in my time- I’ll never forget the cannoli shop in New York’s Little Italy– but you’ll never find anything quite like true Sicilian cannoli. These ricotta-filled pastry tubes are incredible.
If you want to really get to grips with the street food in Palermo, without missing anything, the best solution is to head out on a street food tour. This is such a great way to not just see the city, but try all the culinary delights it has to offer, with a local guide who has extensive knowledge of the city. This is a wonderfully-rated street food tour in Palermo.
For a street food tour with a difference, learn about the mafia presence in Palermo while you eat. Many local businesses have historically had to give protection money- pizzo– to the mafia, and it’s estimated that around 50% continue to do so. This tour with a local law graduate takes visitors to pizzo-free establishments around the city, whilst providing an insight into the reality of organised crime and its effects on Palermo.
Marvel at the Palazzo dei Normani
The Palazzo dei Normani and its Palatine Chapel is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and a must-see for many visitors to Palermo. It’s easy to see why, pals: this palace is an absolute stunner.
Built by the Normans after they conquered southern Italy in 1072, this was the home of the Kings of Sicily for centuries, and it’s now home to the Sicilian Parliament. The main spectacle of the palace is the Palatine Chapel, the inside of which is decorated with glistening gold mosaics, and like the cathedral, the chapel is influenced by Arabic, Norman and Byzantine design.
Although it’s possible to visit on your own with just an audio guide, if you want to really get in-depth, book on to a visit with a local tour guide.
Head to Mondello Beach
The concrete jungle of Palermo, as old as it may be, can get hot hot hot, and sometimes the only thing for it is to jump into the sea immediately. There are no beaches within walking distance of Palermo cruise port, so your best bet is to head to Mondello.
The water around Sicily is crystal clear, and at the wide open sandy bay of Mondello it’s also very shallow, so it’s a great spot for families. There are tonnes of restaurants and bars along the seafront, sun beds for hire, and plenty of quite noisy men selling fruit and water up and down the sand. During the height of summer it can be very crowded, so if you’re after a secluded spot this might not be the place for you.
Here’s the exact location on Google Maps.
Explore the food markets
Palermo has a long history of street markets, dating back to the days of Arab rule, and their bustling, chaotic atmosphere isn’t unlike being at a North African souk.
My favourite of Palermo’s famous street markets is the Mercato del Capo, which occupies a long, narrow street in the historic centre of the city. It’s about half an hour on foot from Palermo cruise port; once you get there, prepare to dive in at the deep end of foodie chaos. The sights, smells and sounds of this market are incredible, from the gargantuan swordfish ready to be sold, to brightly coloured fresh fruits and piles of aromatic herbs. There are plenty of spots to stop and grab some food as well, and the great thing about the Mercato del Capo is that it’s very easy to navigate.
Slightly further away is the Mercato Ballarò, Palermo’s largest, oldest, and probably most well-known market. And then there’s the Mercato della Vucciria, whose name translates to ‘chaos’ in the local dialect. This is the more touristic of the markets, although they’re all changing slightly to cater to tourists as well as locals.
Visit the No Mafia Memorial
It’s so easy as an outsider to view the mafia with a kind of detachment, and to either see it as something glamorous- thanks to the clichés of Hollywood- or as something that no longer exists. But the Cosa Nostra has brought a great deal of bloodshed and turmoil to the people of Palermo, and so if you want to learn about it, I think it’s important to do so with respect.
The No Mafia Memorial is a very small, modest museum dedicated to the victims of the mafia, and to the fight against them. It does a great job of presenting the history of Palermo’s struggle, although be aware that there are some graphic crime scene photographs displayed.
The museum/memorial is free to visit, and is open 11am-5pm every day except Tuesday. Here’s the exact location.
If you want to get an even more in-depth understanding of the No Mafia movement in Palermo, book on to a walking tour with a local. This is a really fantastic way of not just learning about, but also supporting the area, and a percentage of the money raised through these tours is donated to the Addiopizzo charity.
The charity operates under the tagline “An entire people who does not pay the extortion racket, is a free people.” They provide victim support, social outreach programmes into underprivileged communities, and crucially encourage people to use businesses that have pledged not to pay protection money to the mafia.
Palermo is a really astonishing city, with a complex history whether you’re talking ancient or modern, and there is so much to be discovered here. This is definitely one of those places where there’s always more to be discovered, and I love finding my way around new corners every time I return.
Logistical Statisticals: Before you dock at Palermo cruise port
- Don’t panic, pals. As a visitor, you’re highly unlikely to come across any actual mafia activity.
- Currency is the Euro, although cards are widely accepted. It’s always a good idea to carry a bit of cash on you, but you should be fine with a card alone.
- If you pay in cash, check your change!
- I’ve taken a wrong turn a couple of times in Palermo and felt slightly as if I am in the wrong part of town. This is hopefully just down to me having over-cautious spidey-senses, particularly when I’m strolling around solo, however there are definitely a few areas of the city it’s wise to stay out of, particularly at night. If you stick to the historical centre, you’ll be fine.
- Remember to bring a scarf to cover your shoulders if you’re going in to churches or the cathedral.
- Sicilian shops tend to shut for a couple of hours in the middle of the day, then reopen from late afternoon into the evening.
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