Throughout my twenties, hostels were the only form of accommodation that I ever considered staying in. And although I’ve experienced a couple of questionable places in my time, I’ve actually had an overwhelmingly positive experience of hostel life. But getting older has changed the way I travel, and my budget has definitely increased since my backpacker days. When we booked our stay in Tangier, however, there were very few options left. And we wanted somewhere with character. Enter: the Bayt Alice Hostel, tucked neatly inside the edge of Tangier’s pretty medina. It’s affordable, the building is beautiful, and the people are a delight.
*This site uses affiliate links, where I may earn a small commission at no cost to the reader.
We touched down at Tangier airport just as the sky was turning a hazy tie-dye curtain of fuschia, tangerine and gold, spindly palm trees silhouetted against the beautiful canvas. Our taxi driver, pre-arranged with the Bayt Alice Hostel, whizzed us through the wide boulevards of the city, past the sandy beach and glossy hotels, to the medina.
But what’s a medina!? I hear you ask. That would be the old town, folks. The more ya know.
Hopping out of the taxi, we followed the driver through the rabbit-warren of whitewashed alleyways. By that point it was dark, but bright street lighting bounced off off of the medina walls, keeping everything visible. And the streets were still very much full of life. A gaggle of women sat gossiping outside a little shop on metal chairs. A man smoked on a corner. Children played. A shopkeeper on a ladder pulled items of off shelves for a customer in his open doorway. And the cats were out in full force, obviously. What would Morocco be, without cats?
Door to door, it took about twenty-five minutes to get from Tangier airport to the check-in desk of the Bayt Alice Hostel, our pick-up arranged with one simple message through Booking.com. A very cheery and chatty man checked us in, sang a bit of Minnie Riperton (when he discovered I’m a singer), and showed us to our private room. It couldn’t have been easier.
Bohemian in the city
The bohemian atmosphere of the Bayt Alice Hostel perfectly reflects the vibe of Tangier. Between 1925 and 1956, the city was an International Zone, independently governed by a collection of representatives from various countries. It was a strange set-up, but as a result of this ‘international zone,’ a whole ragtag band of international waifs and strays arrived in Tangier, attracted by its free-spirited soul. Writers, poets, artists and musicians drifted through, some making Tangier their permanent home.
This romantic history can’t just be felt within the walls of the Bayt Alice Hostel, but in Tangier as a whole. In fact pals, if you’ve ever visited Casablanca- and been disappointed at the decidedly uncharismatic atmosphere- I highly recommend that you hit Tangier up instead.
Welcome to the Bayt Alice Hostel
The Bayt Alice Hostel is footsteps away from the American Legation Museum, and a few footsteps more (in the opposite direction) to the seafront Corniche. And although it’s fairly easy to locate, I was glad the taxi driver showed us the way to the door. When I’m travelling solo, I avoid arriving anywhere after dark- but let’s face it, even with a friend I’d rather not.
Housed in an old 19th century house, the setting couldn’t be more beautiful. Inside, the clean white walls are adorned with an eclectic collection of paintings, tiles and old maps and travel posters, and natural light shines through the central roof skylight into each floor of the house.
The brightly-painted rooftop has plenty of shady nooks, crannies and hammocks for guests to relax and enjoy the views across the city and out to sea. Glorious. And up on the roof there’s also a kitchen, where coffee and tea is available 24/7. In the distance, ferries shuttle passengers across the turquoise sea to Spain.
There are mixed and same-sex dorms available- I had a peek inside, and the rooms look beaut. But as there were two of us we opted for a private room with an en suite bathroom, and a little juliet balcony overlooking the narrow alleyway below. Not for the faint-hearted, my bed was up a (very sturdy) wooden ladder, on a mezzanine above the bathroom. The room was clean, beautifully decorated, the shower was great, and although there was no AC, the temperature was fine. The hostel also offers breakfast each morning for 50MAD, but we headed out each day to eat instead.
The only slight downside to note, was the street noise on one evening. For a country where alcohol is illegal, people sure do stay up late in Morocco! As our room was just above the street, any noise was very audible, although this tends to be an issue in just about any old town I’ve ever stayed in, worldwide. (Diocletian’s Palace in Split was probably the most hardcore, purely because those Croatian folk were also early risers.)
The Bayt Alice is a hostel for all!
The Bayt Alice Hostel, in case you were concerned, is definitely not a party hostel. The vibe is laid back, very welcoming, and is clearly popular with people of all ages. Other guests while we were there included solo travellers (including several women travelling alone), and groups of friends in their twenties and thirties, but also couples and solo travellers in their fifties and sixties, and even an older mother and daughter duo.
What I really love about hostels is the sense of community that so many of them have, and for an easy-going introduction to Morocco- and a team who’s always on hand to help- this place is perfect.
Of course, there are plenty of far more luxurious hotel options in Tangier. Back in the day, Tangier exuded glamour. But for a budget stay to kick off the very beginning of our two week road trip through Morocco, the Bayt Alice Hostel had just the kind of charm that we were after.
Morocco is very much a cash-based society. So like every hotel we stayed in during our trip, even if you book the Bayt Alice Hostel online, you’ll need to pay in cash when you arrive.
Check rates and availability for the Bayt Alice Hostel Tangier.
Everything you need to know about driving in Morocco
I stayed in a wine cave and it was great