Holidaymakers flock to the Turkish riviera all summer long; there are plenty of resorts to choose from for every kind of budget, and the Mediterranean beaches are absolute stunners. I’ve never visited during the summer, but in November, I was curious about what Antalya Old Town had to offer. Here’s how I spent two days on a solo break in the city.
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In late November, Antalya old town glows with a cozy Autumnal warmth. Street vendors roast chestnuts and corn cobs over hot coals, creating a smoky haze around them in the air. Holidaymakers relax on beaches, with clear Mediterranean water lapping at their feet and a perfect view of the snow capped mountains across the bay. Cats bathe in the sun too, padding from corner to corner to sample bowls of biscuits left out for them by the locals. (They really do take care of their feline friends in Türkiye. Like Morocco, this is not a place to visit if you’re not a fan of cats.) And through the entrance of Hadrian’s Gate the narrow streets are so very narrow, that it’s impossible for cars to navigate. There’s nothing quite as lovely as an old town where only pedestrians can walk, right pals?
Antalya is one of Türkiye’s biggest and most populous cities, with an urban area home to around 1.5 million people; but Antalya old town, right in the centre, is worlds apart from its surroundings. Otherwise known as Kaleiçi, this is the historic heart of the city, and it was founded all the way back in the 2nd Century BC. She’s an old, old gal.
Over the years, Kaleiçi was ruled by the Romans, the Byzantines, the Seljuks and the Ottomans, and the influence of all these cultures can be felt throughout its cobbled streets. Most of the red-roofed brick houses are from the Ottoman era, and with their overhanging windows they reminded me of the traditional houses I saw in Gjirokaster, an Albanian mountain town. It makes sense: the Ottomans ruled the roost round there for a while, too.
Türkiye is at a crossroads between east and west, and technically Antalya is on the continent of Asia. The more ya know. The majority of the Turkish population is Muslim, so the call to prayer regularly ripples across town from minarets old and modern. Pals, it is beaut.
How to get from the airport to Antalya Old Town
As I arrived late at night, I travelled from the airport to Antalya old town by taxi, and the journey from door to door took about 20 minutes in total. Which, let’s face it, is ideal when you’re desperate to get to bed. It cost 650 lira, which is about $13.50USD (2026).
A more budget-friendly way to make the journey is to travel by tram, which costs the equivalent of less than a euro. Take the T1A line directly from the airport to Ismetpașa, which is a few minutes walk from Kaleiçi.
Or of course, you could pre-book a car from the airport to Antalya old town, just to make sure you can quickly get going without any waiting around. The price is higher than a normal taxi, but for convenience it makes sense.
Where to stay in Antalya Old Town
I stayed at Casa Sur, an elegant boutique hotel just inside the walls of Antalya Old Town. The old house was once home to a local painter, but the building was thoroughly modernised to transform it into the hotel. I’m telling you now pals: it is absolutely stunning. Each of the six bedrooms are beautifully decorated, with exposed brick walls and warm lighting, and the staff are downright lovely.
The most unique aspect of Casa Sur is definitely the garden, which is bordered by the ancient city wall and overflowing with foliage and fruit trees. Breakfast was served at the outdoor garden terrace- a truly tranquil spot to ease into the morning- and at any time of day the food was delicious but also beautifully presented.
Check rates and availability for the Casa Sur Antalya.
What to do in Antalya Old Town
Explore on foot!
The whole ethos of this entire blog, pals. The very best thing to do in Antalya old town is, without a doubt, to get out there on your own two feet and meander through the winding alleyways. Start at Hadrian’s Gate, which was built in honour of the Roman emperor Hadrian in 130CE, and see what you find as you go. Kaleiçi isn’t so big that you can get dangerously lost, and the streets are very safe. If you’d rather explore with a local guide, book through a reputable site like Viator.
Swim at Mermerli Beach
The closest beach to Antalya Old Town is Mermerli, and it’s so very close that you can walk there in just a few minutes. The little crescent bay is at the foot of the city walls; in fact it’s possible to stand at the top of a little cliff and gaze right down on to the people swimming and sunbathing below. There is a charge to visit Mermerli, and in summer time I’m told it can be massively overcrowded- so if you want more space, you might be better off going slightly further away to Lara Beach. But in November when I visited, Mermerli was very tranquil indeed.
Saunter through a park or two, for some scenic views
That view of the beach and its sunbathers? That would be from Kecili Park, a pretty little garden overlooking the beach and a lovely view of the harbour. The flower-filled park is picture-perfect, and so worth a visit.
Slightly further away is Karaalioglu Park, which has lovely green spaces and plenty of trees, but also a beautiful wide balcony with epic views of the bay and the majestic mountains in the distance.
Introduce yourself to a few cats
I’m pretty certain that the cat population in Antalya old town must almost outnumber the human population, because they are everywhere. And I love it. Most of the cats are very tame, because even the strayest of strays are cared for by the community. I saw plenty of humans leaving food and water bowls out for the cats, and wooden cat houses were a very common sight; I even spotted a few cat apartment blocks.
Head to the marina
Follow the pathways downhill to find Kaleiçi marina. The little harbour is normally filled with boats- in fact there are plenty of companies there offering boat tours out into the Gulf of Antalya- but it’s also just a great pace for a relaxed stroll and some seafront air. There are lots of restaurants and bars around the marina if you want to sit and take in the vibes for a while, but you’ll also find plenty of street vendors.
Keep your eyes peeled for ice cream; Turkish ice cream involves a whole extra layer of theatrical tricks to keep punters entertained before they receive the stretchy-textured dessert.
Eat gözleme
Good golly, pals. I had no idea how delicious Turkish food truly is until I arrived in Antalya old town. (Don’t get me wrong, I’ve tried a fair few kebabs in my time, but that has generally been at the end of a night out in my twenties.)
You can’t really go wrong with street food anywhere in the world, and gözleme really is mouthwateringly good. The flatbread is cooked in front of your eyes and usually filled with either spinach and feta, or minced lamb or beef. It smells great, and it tastes even better.
Enjoy Turkish coffee like a pro
Would this be a true Alex Getting Lost guide if I didn’t mention a place to stop for coffee? Turkish coffee is extra potent, so you might want to think twice about having more than one in a day. I tried a few places in Antalya old town, but my favourite was definitely Çay-Tea’s Boutique Cafe. With a counter full of homemade cakes and cozy decor both inside and out, it felt more unique than other coffee shops I visited, and the people were lovely too. Plus, the outdoor seating is perfectly located for people-watching. Bravo, Çay-Tea’s.
Visit the Yivliminare Mosque
The Yivliminare Mosque (“yivliminare” literally translates to “fluted minaret”), is considered to be a true icon of the city, and it’s no surprise. Not only is the pretty red-brick minaret visible from just about any viewpoint, but the mosque was built in the 13th century and has been a permanent fixture ever since.
The mosque is truly a stunning piece of architecture, and is completely free to visit, however it’s also an active place of worship. It’s best to avoid visiting during one of the five daily prayer times, and of course remain respectfully dressed and behaved.
Learn about the dervishes
I’m including this, not because I’ve been there, but because I was gutted to have only discovered it’s existence after I left. The Dervish Lodge Museum- Mevlevihane Lodge- is right next to the Yivliminare Mosque, and it’s completely free to visit.
The museum is focused on Sufism- which is a mystical branch of Islam focusing on direct connection with God- and the Mevlevi Order. The Mevlevis are also known as the Whirling Dervishes. You know, the men who spin and spin and spin, with robes billowing as they rotate? In my ignorance, I had no idea before I visited Turkey that this whirling dance happens for religious reasons. The museum has great reviews and would be a great place to visit if you want to learn more about Sufi culture and practices.
Try Helvaci
Maybe you’ve already of helva. In fact, Helvaci Ali is now an international franchise, with dessert shops across the entire world. But Helvaci Ali started life here in Türkiye in 1900, and I’d say it’s the perfect place to go for a night-time dessert before you walk; there’s a branch just outside the walls of Antalya old town, opposite Hadrian’s Gate.
Helva is a traditional semolina dessert, which can have other flavours like pistachio, chocolate or rose, added to it. The consistency was far more pasty than I was expecting, and served warm with ice cream, it was delicious.
Glass elevator viewpoint
Kaleiçi feels almost as if it’s built inside a half-bowl, and any point around the edge of the old town will give you a stunning view. So taking a ride on the glass elevator is a great way to see the rooftops and minarets without too much walking involved. The elevator is free and transports passengers up the cliffside to Cumhuryet Squarem which is a completely modern contrast to the winding streets of the old town.
In case you’re curious, “Cumhuryet” translates to “republic;” the square is named after the Republic of Türkiye which was founded in 1923. And in case you’re even more curious, prior to the formation of the republic, Türkiye and the rest of the Ottoman Empire was ruled by a monarchy, led by the Sultan. Here’s a Youtube video about the fall of the Ottoman Royal family.
Dinner at Cava
And finally! Having tried out a few options in Antalya old town, I can hand on heart say that the best place I ate was Cava, the restaurant attached to Casa Sur. The menu is inspired by classic Turkish flavours and dishes, with stunning presentation and a truly lovely garden location. 10/10, would recommend to all.
To be completely honest, I don’t know whether I’d have been as charmed by Antalya had I visited in July or August. (In fact, perhaps I wouldn’t have appreciated it at all?) This area is the beating heart of Türkiye’s tourist industry, and there were a few streets I walked down which were lined with bars and pubs clearly aimed at English holidaymakers. I can imagine that in summer, it could get pretty chaotic.
But for a few nights in November, it couldn’t have been more perfect. The streets were quiet, the people were friendly, and the atmosphere was relaxed. Is Antalya old town worth visiting? That probably depends on what you want to get out of your stay, but for me, this stay was a gorgeous surprise. (And I still think about this brilliant cat-pal that I made, almost daily.)
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