I’ll be frank: a South England road trip during the Autumn meant that the weather was completely unpredictable. (When is the weather in England not unpredictable?) But there’s something about the turning of the seasons from summer to fall that evokes all the atmospheric spirit of a Jane Eyre novel, particularly down south. It’s not to be ignored.
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The real aim of our south England road trip was to prove to myself and my Croatian boyfriend- having both seen a whole lot of the rest of the world- that firstly, England is beautiful, and secondly, that it doesn’t consistently rain here. The overwhelming presence of wet weather during our Autumnal journey didn’t do me any favours, but the beauty of the south of England shone through regardless. We spent seven days exploring on our road trip, and finished that up with a week in my beautiful hometown of Eastbourne in East Sussex.
Day One
Winchester, Hampshire
We drove straight to Winchester from Heathrow Airport, mainly because we wanted as short and direct a drive as possible from the airport, whilst getting a jolly good night’s sleep in a very pretty part of England. Centuries ago, Winchester was kind of a big deal- in fact, in 871AD the city was the capital of Wessex, and home of King Alfred (the one who burnt the cakes.) These days the genteel little city is quaint and also fairly quiet, but it makes a lovely place for a stroll and a good old English pub lunch.
When in Winchester:
- Visit the Medieval Winchester Cathedral, home of King Arthur’s Round Table
- Take a tour of Winchester College, the oldest continuously running school in England, and filming location for Harry Potter
- If you’re a bit of a history buff or want more of a deep-dive into the city’s past, book on to a walking tour. (This one includes the cathedral.)
Stay in Winchester:
We spent one night at the beautiful Running Horse, which is a traditional pub in Littleton, a village ten minutes from the city. The rooms are cozy and inviting, all set in what looks like stable buildings away from the main pub. The breakfast wasn’t just included, it was incredible, and the pub serves traditional meals throughout the day as well.
Check rates for the Running Horse Winchester here.
Day Two.
Stonehenge, Wiltshire
The thing about travelling to the county of Cornwall is that there are really only two main roads in to it, so there’s a high chance that your South England road trip route will take you right past the ancient stone circle of Stonehenge. You could, of course, just drive on by (and the traffic is often so slow-moving along this stretch of road, that you’ll get a fairly decent glimpse if you do), but understandably plenty of visitors to England want to get up close and personal with these big old boulders.
This prehistoric stone circle is possibly the UK’s most famous (and most ancient) landmark; the gargantuan slabs of rock were erected here around 2500BC. The size of these rocks mean they’re basically impossible for humans to move, and nobody knows the true reason for Stonehenge’s existence.
The price of entry to Stonehenge is actually pretty steep, although it’s worth noting that if you have a National Trust Membership (there is also a National Trust Touring Pass available for non-UK residents), you’re entitled to free entry- even though Stonehenge is maintained by English Heritage, a completely different organisation.
Exeter, Devon
We included a stop at the city of Exeter mainly as it was a convenient stopping point to break up the journey, stretch our legs and have a bite to eat. If you’ve got time on your hands, it might also be worth staying an extra night in the city, as there’s tonnes to do here and the Medieval city centre is often bustling with activity.
Right at the heart of the city is a stunning Norman Cathedral which is so worth going inside. (If you’re visiting from the US or elsewhere and aren’t sure, the Normans came from the Normandy region of France and conquered England back in roughly 1066AD.) So: this cathedral is approximately 1000 years old, no big deal. There’s a small charge to visit, which you can pay on entry.
When in Exeter:
- Visit Exeter Cathedral.
- Take a walk along Exeter Quayside and grab a coffee or some food at one of its many eateries.
Other things to do in South Devon.
Day Three.
Port Isaac and Tintagel, North Cornwall
The last time I’d been down to North Cornwall was for four days in early summer, and by comparison early autumn was a very moody affair. Moody, windswept, and still as rugged as ever. The landscape of this western-most corner of England seems completely wild, and is dotted with wind-whipped slate cottages on clifftops, with tiny winding lanes carved through fields.
During the summer, we’d been able to spend more time outside, exploring the golden sands of Rock Beach, the magical icy water of St Nectan’s Glen and winding our way along the river at Boscastle. But for the two days we spent here in Autumn, the weather seemed to mostly consist of freezing rain.
You could say it was a shame, but we made the most of our two days on the north Cornwall coast by attempting to locate any pubs with roaring fireplaces, eating a lot of fish and chips in the car, and drinking many a warm beverage in coffee shops with steamed-up windows. We slipped down the cobblestones of the pretty fishing village of Port Isaac on a rather rainy day, but decided firmly against walking along the cliffs at Tintagel to the castle, just to avoid slipping to our doom.
Stay in the Port Isaac area:
Accommodation in Port Isaac can be pricy, although of course during autumn and winter the prices tend to drop a little. For something unique, look at the Old School Hotel, which (predictably) is inside an old schoolhouse on the cliffs.
For somewhere more special, check rates at Trewornan Manor which is set in its own beautiful gardens in the nearby town of Wadebridge.
What to do:
- Buy some Cornish fudge from Buttermilk Artisan Confectionary. (It’s delicious.) The sweet shop is turned into Portwen Chemist when Doc Martin comes to film in town.
- If you’re a fan of the TV show, book yourself onto a Doc Martin Tour to see the other filming locations in the village.
- Try some locally-caught seafood at Fresh From the Sea.
- If the weather’s better- head to Tintagel Castle!
- Get a Cornish Pasty from The Cornish Bakery.
Day Four.
Polzeath
When the sun came out at last, we headed to the stunning sands of Polzeath and its multicoloured rocks inlaid with rock pools galore. The wide golden sand of the bay here is absolutely beautiful, even on a chilly autumn day, and it’s easy to see why Polzeath is such a popular resort.
Like the nearby beach town of Rock, Polzeath attracts many of the rich and famous, but on the day we visited we spotted mostly hardcore surfers in wetsuits, doing battle with the Atlantic waves. We opted out of the surfing, and merely observed them over our super hot coffees from Beach Box, which is perfectly situated right next to the beach.
Day Five.
Dartmoor National Park
The first of the three UK national parks on this south England road trip itinerary, the wild atmosphere of Dartmoor has inspired all kinds of literary works, from Emily Bronte’s Wuthering Heights, to Arthur Conan Doyle’s Hounds of the Baskervilles and the more recent War Horse by Michael Morpugo. Put bluntly, this rugged patch of England is basically an icon and a muse.
The scenery here is stunning but somehow twisted. Windswept open moors are pinned together with craggy boulders and smattered with rough heather and gorse. Wild Dartmoor Ponies gallop through the wild countryside, and there’s something completely captivating about the seemingly untamed beauty of the whole area.
Devon/Dorset border
There’s no better way to experience the rolling farmland of Dorset and Devon, than by staying there. Although I’d spent some time in East Devon a few years ago, I hadn’t seen much of the countryside inland, and these green hills and blackberry-filled hedgerows are downright glorious- especially in autumn.
We stayed for two nights at Foxglove Carriage near Axminster, and it was definitely one of the best Airbnb experiences I’ve had. The converted railway carriage is set on a working farm, and has an amazing host, plus all the amenities you could ever wish for. Waking up in this perfect patch of Devon countryside was just magical- not just for the pretty, cozy, countryside views- but also for the thoughtful details like fresh milk from the farm, and the underfloor heating which stopped you getting chilly first thing in the morning. (There’s also a sauna and a pool, as an added bonus.)
Day Six.
Lyme Regis, Dorset
The pretty little town of Lyme Regis is a must-stop on a south England road trip, partly because of its quaint olde worlde vibes, and partly because of its much older extremely prehistoric vibes.
The streets are lined with tiny boutiques and coffee shops, and many of the pastel-coloured houses and hotels look like they’re straight out of an Agatha Christie novel. It’s also impossible not to pick up on the fossil theme running through the centre of town and along the seafront; gift shops are overflowing with fossils unearthed here, and walkways and lampposts have ammonite swirls emblazoned into them.
This is because Lyme Regis is right in the middle of the Jurassic Coast, which isn’t just a visually stunning and dramatic natural wonder; it’s also a hotbed for fossils.
Arguably the town’s most important resident ever was a fossil-hunting expert named Mary Anning. Mary had a true passion for fossils, and what started out as a way to earn money- selling her found fossils to tourists- became a lifelong obsession, and lead to some truly important discoveries. Mary was from a poor family and had a very limited level of education, but she became a self-taught expert on geology and fossils, and discovered a full Plesiosaurus skeleton in 1823. As a woman, particularly a woman of her social background, she never received the credit she deserved for her knowledge and discoveries.
Almost 200 years after her death, Mary Anning is a hero in this little town.
What to do in Lyme Regis:
- Go on a guided fossil hunt with an expert and learn Mary Anning’s story in full.
- Head to Monmouth Beach to see the Ammonite Pavement.
Charmouth, Dorset
Fancy going on a fossil hunt of your own? While there are plenty of beaches to choose from along the full 95 mile stretch of the Jurassic Coast, we headed to nearby Charmouth.
The dramatic cliffs along Charmouth beach looked even more dramatic under the clouds sweeping their way across the sky, and even with the nippiness in the air the beach was busy with people searching for dinosaurs. The cliffs in this part of England hold rocks from the Triassic, Jurassic, and Cretacious periods; they’re basically fit to burst with over 185 million years of history, and each time the cliffs crumble a little more, more fossils are revealed.
It’s actually possible to walk from Lyme Regis to Charmouth; I use the AllTrails App to find hikes wherever I am in the world.
Day Seven.
Lulworth Cove, Dorset
Further down the Jurassic Coast is beautiful Lulworth. The Dorset countryside is truly some of the prettiest in the entire south of England, and the drive to Lulworth is absolutely joyous, down winding country lanes, past thatched cottages and pubs, and up and around rolling hills.
There’s a paid car park right at the foot of the hills, and from there it’s only a short walk to the pretty cove, which curves perfectly around the sea like a cradle. From Lulworth Cove you can walk all the way along the mile long cliff path to Durdle Door, a stunning natural stone arch in the sea, and another of Dorset’s most well-known spots. Pass Lulworth Crumple- a section of cliffs which looks almost like the pages of a book slanting together, and beneath it Stair Hole, a tiny cove where the sea pours in to secret caves.
Even on a particularly windy (we’re talking freeze-your-facial-muscles-windy) day, this is one of the most beautiful spots of coastline in England. And, on the day we visited, despite the terrible weather conditions, there were many many more visitors.
Day Eight.
The New Forest National Park, Hampshire
National Park number two on this south England road trip itinerary, The New Forest is one of my favourite parts of England. Confusingly to some, the New Forest isn’t just forest; it encompasses ancient forests, wide open moors, and seaside beaches and cliffs. And like all UK national parks, there are towns and villages within its boundaries- meaning there are plenty of options for places to stay.
The New Forest was declared “The New Forest” back when William the Conqueror (you know, of the French Normans who I mentioned earlier) wanted an official Royal forest for hunting in. The forest may be quite old now, but the name has stuck. And just like it was during William the Conquerors time, ponies, cows, and deer roam freely- even within the villages. It’s not unusual to see a pony chilling outside a pub or a couple of cows walking down the middle of a road. During early autumn, you’ll also find pigs shuffling around the forest, let loose to snuffle up all the fallen acorns.
The colours here during Autumn are stunning; once-purple heather that covers the New Forest heathland starts to mute, and heather and bracken turns a blazing orange. The best thing you can do in this part of England is definitely to get outside and into nature.
Where to stay in the New Forest:
We stayed in an Airbnb in the centre of Lyndhurst, which was in a really great location just off of the High Street. The cottage had everything we needed, but there are also so many other options within the New Forest. Look at this beautiful shepherds hut in Lymington, or the traditional-but-super-cozy Beaulieu Inn in Beaulieu (which has some delicious food on offer at its sister pub The Drift Inn.) For something really special, book a room at The Pig in Brockenhurst, which has a walled kitchen garden on site and a spa in the potting shed.
Day Nine.
Brighton, West Sussex
Next up, onto the colourful seaside city of Brighton, where anything goes. Wear what you want, be who you want, but be careful about eating food in public because chances are, the seagulls will nab it.
Brighton has been one of England’s most popular seaside resorts since the 1800s, and its popularity doesn’t seem to be waning at all. During the summer months the city can be a little overwhelming, with crowded beaches and packed streets, but as the days grow shorter there are fewer day-trippers crowding onto the pebble beaches.
Take a walk on Brighton Pier and maybe have a go on a few rides, have a drink in one of the seafront bars or take in the view from the i360. (Book i360 tickets here to avoid a queue.) Then head into the city centre for food and all the shopping you could wish for. Whatever you do, don’t miss the bohemian North Laine and its incredible street art, cafes, independent shops, pubs and bars.
South Downs National Park, East Sussex
The South Downs National Park is a stunner, with rolling chalk downland, farms and patches of woodland throughout. And the jewel in its crown, as far as I’m concerned, is the stunning Seven Sisters cliffs and the iconic red and white striped Beachy Head Lighthouse. Although the national park covers a big old area, stretching from Hampshire through West Sussex and on to East Sussex, we kept to the area between Brighton and Eastbourne, driving the picturesque road from East Dean to the top of Beachy Head.
A walk along the top of these cliffs is highly recommended, and you can find a detailed guide to hiking the Seven Sisters here.
What to do in the South Downs:
- Visit the pretty village of Alfriston and treat yourself to a pub lunch while you’re there.
- Go for a walk! There are paths all over the Downs.
- Explore the little town of Lewes (especially if you happen to be in the area on the 5th November.)
Day Ten.
Eastbourne, East Sussex
Home! Ten years ago, Eastbourne was known as a holiday destination for the over 65s, and the retirement capital of England. But these days, the seaside town is one of the most up-and-coming destinations in the UK. Brighton’s much more relaxed sister also became popular as a Victorian seaside resort, and the seafront is lined with plenty of beautiful old hotels, as well as being home to a classic wooden pier and more rebellious seagulls than I care to count.
The town is filling up with independent coffee shops and restaurants; my new favourite bakery is To The Rise, and I will recommend Yummy Noodle Bar to anyone and everyone. Stick around the Devonshire Quarter for theatres and the Towner Art Gallery, or get down to the beach for a glorious golden hour stroll- and make sure you go as far as Holywell.
This town may be quiet, but I love it, and it was the perfect end destination to our ten day south England road trip.
Read my detailed guide to Eastbourne.
Where to stay in Eastbourne:
The Port Hotel is a boutique hotel in a Victorian townhouse right on the seafront, with stylish rooms and a seasonal menu to die for. The View is a much more modern hotel with a gorgeous bar overlooking the seafront. Or, for a far more luxurious stay, book a room at the five star Grand Hotel.
Want to continue your south England road trip?
The reason this particular itinerary is great, is that it starts from Heathrow airport, and ends in Eastbourne- which is perfectly located to drive directly back up to Heathrow. However, maybe you want to spend longer than ten days exploring. (I get it, the south of England truly is beautiful.) Although my own south England road trip ended in Eastbourne, here are some ideas for other destinations to add to your own itinerary. (Take it from an expert, because I live here, pals.)
Carry on from Eastbourne to the seaside town of Hastings, whose cliffs hold a castle on the top and smugglers tunnels within, and don’t miss the quirky Old Town with its muddle of shops, pubs and houses. Walk along to Rock-A-Nore Beach and its lovely clapboard fishing huts; you can’t miss them, they’re strangely tall.
Then head to the tiny town of Rye and its famous cobbled streets. The historic town is one of the most-visited destinations in this part of England, but for good reason- it’s beautiful. (You might recognise Mermaid Street from instagram.)
Continue along the coast to eery Dungeness, a unique community on a massive expanse of shingle beach which shifts as the tides turn. It sounds bizarre, but if you look at the pictures you’ll understand why it’s a must-visit, especially if you’re a fan on off-the-beaten-track destinations.
Sticking to the coast, take a trip to the White Cliffs of Dover, and walk along the stunning chalk cliffs, an important symbol of England. And make sure you don’t miss Dover Castle. A medieval fortress above ground, and a network of World War II tunnels below, make this place one of the most interesting historic places you could possibly visit around these parts!
The town of Canterbury is a popular spot to visit in Kent, particularly if you’re not all cathedralled out yet. It’s tiny lanes are also a lovely place to explore, with some delicious restaurants to try.
And on the north Kent coast, make sure to visit the traditional seaside town of Broadstairs, gorgeous Botany Bay and the up-and-coming with the hipsters artsy town of Margate. (Check out Dreamland Margate for a taste of the retro.) Follow the coastline all the way to Whitstable and its fishing boats. The town and beach are pretty, but the most important thing to do while you’re here is to sample some of their freshly caught oysters (or if that’s a bit much, at least a cup of cockles in vinegar.)
